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If there's no missing line, you're obviously good.
But, the one you want to use wouldn't go to the brake booster - that sounds like the gladhand that activates the brakes as needed. The other one is used to supply air to the tanks and the one that is the ideal way to fill the tanks from an...
I think this would've fit nicely in the "FLU tire" thread, but either way, an Esco beadblaster may prove more useful than the tire irons. At least for those who already have some sort of decent tire tools.
Of course, there's always starting fluid.
You don't need another vehicle with air brakes. I frequently move trailers (with air brakes) using whatever vehicle is suitable, and a portable air tank.
Although, for me, towing a FLU would be with a cobbled up tow bar anyway since I can't easily tow with a strap by myself, so no need for air.
There's no need to make the entire trailer brake part of the system operational, just the air feed. It is one line.
Aside from a very convenient (and correct) way to put air into the system, that feed can be used if you ever get towed with a strap or chain, for example, want power assisted...
I wouldn't say that replacing one measly air line is a lot of trouble, and it most certainly can't be labeled as expensive. Not even if buying the line from Grainger.
I also wouldn't say that having the front gladhands operational has no benefit.
Anyway, removing one of the (to me) useless...
Not that I think you'll normally use the front gladhands other than as an easy way to fill and troubleshoot the system, but if someone removed part of the air line, why not replace it?
Yep, like Alpine pointed out, the rears are outlets, the fronts are inlets.
I think the FLU's compressor is anemic on a good day. Not that I know its specs, but with the limited tank volume it really should fill them much faster.
One of these years I'll probably install an electric compressor...
While it's not a fix, it's quick and easy to blow compressed air into the tank through the line at the strainer. If the pickup is clogged, that'll unclog it...for a while anyway.
Or you can do what I did and replace all the lines and washers (which surely didn't hurt) only to find that it was...
Aside from using the backhoe as a counterbalance/to extract yourself, as others have mentioned, even as wimpy as the loader is on the Winter SEE it can help push backwards in situations like that.
Heck, supposedly Big Bison was in a much worse predicament than that and successfully deployed the...
On my FLUs I may or may not notice if the brakes work. I very rarely use the brakes on them.
I have a beater sports car that generally gets to go to the post office, some three miles away. It has a bad habit of running the master cylinder dry, and I usually don't notice that until having to...
I use anti gel. Because I'm lazy. It's much easier.
Thumping? Had something similar to that when a snow chain came off the outside and ended up draped over all the little lines, hoses, and wires on the inside.
Oddly enough, nothing broke.
I'd check the strainer, and for air leaks, before replacing any parts. At least it sounds much like what I've experienced.
Besides, I hadn't heard of an idle control assembly, so I wouldn't even know how to replace one.
If memory serves me, a FLU can put out 26 gpm at some 2,500 rpm.
In my case, that's almost enough to run the snow blower in deep, wet snow. If only the SEE would be geared lower, it'd work great.
That's with a low flow 'blower, by the way, and only a little wider than the SEE.
Since I only use...
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