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Speaking of lighter notes, I must point out that I had a very nice visit with General Hood and his lovely wife last week. I can highly recommend that you stop by - especially if it's not during tornado season. Oh, and don't park where I did. I'll have to send him about a cubic yard of dirt to...

If not switching attachments between different FLUs, have you considered swapping over to regular quick disconnects and standard hoses? Surplus Center, for example, has affordable hoses. These days I think it's worth the extra money spent for flat-face couplers, though. I hate the inevitable...

Not that I have that problem, but it sure sounds like lubrication could be the simple solution. I suspect that stiff pivot points are responsible for most throttle linkage issues, especially when a heavy size 12 stomped on the pedal in the storage yard, prior to the auction. Putting...

Hmm. Somebody should post that info in the main thread, for everybody to see.

Sorry, I'm out. Good luck.

Okay, so it sounds like what you'd really like us/me to do is to go through the main thread for you and then post the most relevant pages, saving you the trouble? Or would it be more convenient if someone wrote a new post, condensing it into one really long one?

I think this is one of those "If you have to ask, don't do it" situations. FLUs are quite complex is several aspects, but how the attachments are held on is definitely not one of them.

Jim, I can't remember if the removal/reattachment procedures are covered in the TMs or not, but I'd think they are. Either way, it's fairly straightforward if you look at how they're attached. Then again, depending on what cylinders aren't working, you may not be able to remove either one...

Jim, it's been covered on the main (Owner's) thread in various forms over time. Yeah, it's a lot of reading, but aside from my posts, mostly very good info. I'll counter with a question: Why would you want to remove the attachments??? It's a heck of a lot easier to remove and install cylinders...

You certainly have more patience than I do. Right or wrong, I expect them to start...as long as the batteries are in decent shape. Especially the Winter SEE, which seems to inject ether without even doing anything with the knob. Love that smell, by the way.

That is good, straight steel. It can be used for all kinds of projects, so don't toss it. Instead, bring it with you when you come here and study air lines and such.

If your covers have been off for any amount of time, keep in mind that mud dobbers like to make their nests in places like that, effectively closing the air flow off.

Maybe you're just trying to do it too fast? I know I did the first time, and it was violent. I'd think that reversing the lever too late could be the main cause. And running high rpm could make it trickier, I suppose.

Funny you mention the latching, since yesterday I was a bit surprised over how nicely the Summer SEE latched - with me standing on the ground, reaching over to the lever, and the engine at about 800 rpm. It was completely smooth and practically noiseless. Anyway, yes, you may need to work some...

Ron, just found this "auto saved" post which apparently never got anywhere. Well, I can't say that I have traced the air lines back from the front gladhands to see where they go. I took for granted that they'd work just like on Class 8 trailers, and they do. Also, I must admit that I lost...

Indeed, the trick when using ether is to already have an air hose ready. As you noticed, otherwise the tire often comes off again. It helps a bit to remove the Schrader valve, providing an air inlet. Removing the Schrader valve helps a lot when reseating or mounting tires, but requires an air...

Indeed, it's two inches wider. But so is the tire, so other than having an "extra safety bead" to deal with, it's no different than seating a stock tire on a stock wheel. It would've been easier to do with the tire on the ground, but I was too lazy to take the wheels off.

Sure glad I had that Astra bead seater yesterday. Even with its superior performance it took three tries to get a tire re-seated.

I think you could've skipped the JB Weld part. A dust cover that fits can't really go anywhere anyway, being squeezed between the tie rod end and what it ends up installed on. Well, at least it works well that way in other applications.

It's interesting how the numbers for the SEE varies. At first I remember reading 2,600-something, then 2,300-something, and now we're down to 2,086. For the HMMH it has held steady at 164. while the HME went from 12 to 13. I forgot about the 419.104. As I recall, it was a more or less implement...