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When I had to replace my regulator a few years ago, the general thoughts about it are that the alternator itself is pretty bulletproof; it's almost always the regulator that fails. Since it's putting out power at high levels, it's extremely unlikely that the alternator failed because a failed...

Did you check to see what the resistance of your leads and wires are before touching them to the alternator? It's not uncommon to have up to an ohm of resistance just in the leads and connections. I'd say it's most likely a failed regulator.

So I went back and corrected myself, as it appears they went to higher speed gears rather than higher torque in later years. Here's a sales ad from 1993 stating 2.73 gearing

Random answer, usually 2.73 or 2.56, or whatever the owner decided to put in there. EDIT: Changed 3.08 to2.56 because unlike military HMMWVs, they went to a taller gear in later years for lower cruising RPMs as opposed to lower gearing for higher torque in the military ECV/REV trucks. 92-97...

No problem. Lots of confusing terms/nomenclature for parts, and some of them just weird. And just for reference, the word "bracket" shows up in the ECV/REV parts manual 1241 times, so being able to describe the part and what it goes to when searching goes a long way to narrowing it down...

I did a google search for "hmmwv 12k halfshaft insert" This shows up on the AM General website for ECV/REV trucks. https://genuinehumveeparts.com/product/5715542spacer-halfshaft-boot-tulip-12k The part number there, 5715542 shows up on a lot of parts sites...

biggest downside I see is if one fails, you're waiting for your supplier to get a new one shipped to you. I suppose that's the same with most 6T series batteries, especially the AGM ones.

My personal opinion is it's better to have the bead lock run flat installed. It's a bit of extra work, but adds a lot of safety in case of tire issue while driving. Especially because you're talking about installing tires that the military stopped using 3 decades ago, so even if they are "new"...

no worries; we try to have as few threads started as possible; especially when it's the same basic issue/discussion. I did reply on your new one, but don't be surprised if a moderator moves it over into this one.

First thought was the same thing Mogman said; check the throttle lock under the dash. second thought is how do you know it's idling too fast? If you're just comparing it by ear/feel from one truck to the next; they don't always sound the exact same. If you don't have a tach installed, buying...

For the DRASH/HDT gen/ecu trailers, it's the cost of the entire kit, including repair parts, tent, auxiliary heaters, etc. Everything together is why it's a $100k+ cost for that type of unit.

There is nothing in that picture that even remotely reminds me of anything HMMWV. The wheels/tires are just because that's what the Army has lots of, so using that in a prototype would simplify supply chain if ever adopted. What does the equipment look like overall? It's usually pretty cool...

Might be some extra early HMMWVs out there with 4 digit serial numbers or less, a bunch of 5 digit, but the majority are all 6 digit.

There is some debate about the necessity of the bead lock. There is nothing inherently different about the military 16.5" HMMWV rim bead seating area compared to any other 16.5" rim. As long as you keep the tires inflated properly, the tire will stay on the rim. The issues mostly come in when...

That I have no idea. The main concern I'd have is the inner tube valve stem lining up properly in the same location as the inflation valve location on the rim. I find it unlikely that you'll get a perfect match, which would cause strain on the inner tube, leading to premature failure. You will...

The 36" bias ply are lumpy until they warm up, so the first few miles of driving isn't exactly what you would call "smooth". After that through they are fine. The 8 bolt rim is only rated for 25psi. I suppose if you were running your tires below that you would be okay, but I don't know of...

The simplest way to check is get a cheap optical/photo tachometer. All you need to do it point it at a spinning object that has one reflective or bright marking on one spot , and read the numbers. If the numbers don't match, then it's the tach that's off. I've done this math in other threads...

This has come up several times in the past, and the usual culprit was a tachometer that was reading incorrectly.

I don't know if they have the same bolt pattern, but if you changed out the box you'd also have to change out all of the steering linkage, as the two are different (so drag link, idler arm, pitman arm; possibly other parts) The pictures of the two in the manual also appear to have different...