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If it were me I might buy that, but only if a starter rebuild shop told me that repairing mine would be more. If you really don't want to take it to a repair shop, then that's definitely a decent option. 1 year limited warranty is a little piece of mind; definitely better than a cheap chinesium...

I'm pretty sure the trucks with ABS use 5.1, but unaware of the other trucks using it. I recently did brake fluid on my 2010 Barstow rebuild, and it definitely had silicone fluid in it as there was a little water sitting in the bottom of the reservoir. Only article I found about brake fluid is...

Cheap chinese made junk. As far as I know there are no U.S. made gear reduction starters in 24V for the 6.2/6.5.

There are automatic oilers for air systems, as well as filter separators for after the pump to clean up the air (downsides is the ones that will get all the oil mist are expensive, but a cheapert one that gets the majority should be good enough for filling tires) One system example and more...

At minimum I believe you have to mount the winch to the A2 style front bumper. That kit has the A0/A1 mounting plate that replaces the front bumper, and I don't believe it will work with the Ibis bumper. I could be wrong though, so hopefully someone that knows for sure will come along and...

As long as it didn't damage the windings inside the starter motor, you'll probably be okay with a new solenoid rather than complete starter, but that's what a starter rebuild shop will determine. It's almost always worth the money spent getting it fixed right and not having to remove the...

In most cases a winch in the rear to pull yourself back out of what you got into can be more useful than a winch in the front that's just pulling you further into the mess.

Best way to minimize movement is tie it at the length you want from the side you want it on, then tie another cord to the opposite side, with just enough tension to pull it in about 6" from where it sits when just tied to the first one

At minimum you'd need to take your existing starter in to a competent starter repair shop and get it checked out. At worst you need a new starter.

as long as there is no air in the system, the injection pump usually has enough suction to still run. It isn't until you try to put it under a load that the lift pump is an issue. Usually also if it dies because of the lift pump, it will NOT restart until the lift pump is replaced. Open the...

Nah, that's what Chinooks are for. They make great tow trucks.

Looking underneath my truck, there was a wet spot forming on the passenger side frame rail up near the front. Some type of oil, but while it was starting to cover the frame rail, none of it looked to be dripping on the ground. Finally figured out that one of the transmission oil cooling lines...

if it is a bad idler, the bearings should be replaceable and easily found at just about any auto parts store.

no way to tell actual original build date, but if it's a 3 speed it's 1993 or before, as they started the A2 4 speeds in 1994 I believe

it has a small stud that lines up with a hole in the plate it's bolted to, so in theory you could just drill a new hole in the orientation you want of course not knowing what switch it actually is, it might have different functions, or might not be rated to handle the load the HMMWV puts...

You have the old style serpentine belt, which means you probably have the old style generator bracket on the rear of it, that goes from the gen to an exhaust stud. On my truck that exhaust stud broke, so nothing supporting the rear of the generator to the block. This puts a lot of stress on...

I think those are the strikers for the rear doors, not the front? The post should be off to the side of the bolts, not in the middle for the front doors I believe. https://blackdogcustoms.com/product/x-door-striker-complete-set/ EDIT: the cap on the post doesn't make any difference or so...

watching the second video, you can see movement down low on the harmonic balancer and maybe belt movement on the fan pulley. Extra load from the glow plugs pulsing for the afterglow is putting short extra stress on the belt system, and if everything isn't perfectly straight it ends up trying to...

"supposedly an OEM one..." Where did you buy it from? either the switch is wrong, or the paddle is, but I'm guessing the switch.

When mine was failing, it would work for a while, then not work. I managed to limp it along by turning off the truck, tapping on the regulator with my closed pocket knife a few times, then starting up again and it might or might not work. Just keep an eye on the voltage gauge. If it starts...