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Would you believe that about two miles south, and down about 50 feet (at river level), there's a gravel pit? Thousands of truck loads of gravel and rock has left from there since '09, when I moved here, and I think that place has been in operation for quite a while.

Thanks, Ahab. It's also a trailer I never use, which is why it ended up being a storage platform. Anyone here want to buy it? Or it's little brother, the 18-foot EBY aluminum bumper pull flatbed?

You mentioned earlier that you "need" a lift kit, at least for the front. May I ask why you "need" it?

I would let the rear U-joints dictate the vertical position of the transfer case. When both U-joints are at the same angle, or very close to it, they're happy. Whether you raise the transfer case or turn the pinion up doesn't really matter as far as the U-joints are concerned, but I'd raise the...

Putting 1/2-ton springs on a 1-ton rarely results in a lift. Even if they did physically bolt in.

With overnight temps now in the mid 20s, it was time to put away the mowers for the season. And when it involves using a FLU, that's not all bad. Unfortunately, the reach of the HMMH was a about five feet too short for plopping the little mower in it's place.

Welcome to the group, Transformer.

That's a good question, Ahab. I'd guess that it happened at about the same time as the stuff in Oregon/Washington was created, or the Grand Canyon for that matter. Or it could've been a smaller ice dam that gave way at some other point. Either way it must've been many moons ago as this part has...

Forgot about that part. But it'd still work fine, as long as you connect the overflow tank to the radiator. Or most any pressurized overflow tank, for that matter.

Next time you're at the hardware store, pick up regular rod in the closest size (which for a FLU would be 1/4 inch). If you don't want to buy a die, buy two bolts - or better yet studs - with the correct thread and weld them to the rod's ends. That way you have a fully functional replacement rod...

I'd use the radiator pressure tester, with the hose connections plugged. But I get the impression that you don't have one. So the Migginsbros method may be your best bet.

Wouldn't it be better to make a new one? A piece of suitable rod and a bit of threading would be all it'd take.

External drum brakes are a rarity these days.

I would pressure test it, and if it holds the next step would be to straighten out the fins before installing it. Good radiator shops are getting hard to come by, so why spend money on something that probably isn't needed?

Seeing the innards of a Michelin without even trying.

Not the kind of work I like to do with the SEE, but I'm grateful for having it, even for tasks like this. The ripper, which I had only tried briefly once, was a real time saver when getting down to the larger river rock as seen to the right.

I didn't start until I was two or three years old, and even back then it was largely fake.

Working on cars is fun, remember? I hope you do alright with the weather.

I thought that the "coolant upgrade kit" in your neck of the woods was a block heater.

Came across this in an email from yesterday. Click here: Stanley 450 GPM Hydraulic Trash Pump | Featured Items | www.surpluscenter.com