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Two 17 mm line wrenches? Or one line wrench and a cut up deep socket?

Yeah, I strongly suspected that your question was directed to Gringo. There's a youtube video (can't remember the title, of course) about Unimog FLUs that briefly shows a pump used with an HME. Which makes sense if a trench needs to be soaked for compaction, or emptied before being covered back...

If you're asking me, the answer is "I don't know". It hasn't been out of the tool box yet, but I'd guess it's a Stanley since the other tools I've seen are. But for draining ponds I'd get a cheap gas powered HF semi-trash pump. Bought a 2-inch version last year for pumping somewhat clear water...

I really need to learn to write "I think..." more often. Or learn to remember better. Either way, judging by the puny hoses, the trash pump doesn't need much flow to run.

The tool circuit is run by the rear pump, so there's some oomph available. How much, if any, it is choked down for the tools I don't know. There's enough to power a 1-inch version of the Stanley 3/4-inch impact the HMMH came with, but at the moment I don't even remember the flow rate or pressure...

The truly sad part is if they indeed couldn't tell that the parts were recently replaced, just by looking at them.

Yep, you just treat each battery as a separate one, putting the charger on the one you want to charge. It doesn't matter how many batteries are involved, or whether they're wired in series or parallel, as long as the charger is for the same voltage as the battery.

I could live with that. As long as they repaired what they were supposed to correctly. Actually, it could be an advantage if they pointed out something I somehow missed. Then I would fix it myself.

My first action would be to load check the batteries. Then I'd look for less than good connections. By the way, one way to keep the connections happier would be to leave them alone, including when charging the batteries. There's no reason to disconnect the batteries when charging them. Also...

So I'm not the only one who doesn't even like the thought of others working on my vehicles. Largely that's because I usually end up doing the job myself, anyway, except right.

That is the part that will pay off big time. Heck, losing the Gov-Lok is almost worth the price of admission by itself.

With one exception (NAPA being only 11 miles away) the parts stores are 65 to 85 miles away for me. Which I why I rely heavily on mail order. Whichever grade of brake fluid you decide on, be sure to buy enough to thoroughly flush the system out.

For now you could literally make them stay together with tire chains. It's almost that season, again. It's on my list to (hopefully) get the rest of the nice Pewags bought from Choprboy cut down to fit my non-Michelins before it all freezes.

Yeah, that's how I use the splitter in the Pete when pulling a heavy load, or passing on an uphill, and I'm sure it's just as useful to be able to split gears in a SEE. But with my SEE, that hardly ever gets subjected to road use, the range lever and splitter stays in low. And if I could make...

Perfect for a prolonged burnout. Gotta get rid of those Michelins somehow.

You're welcome, minirover. Ironically, a few days ago I read in the "newly discovered" handout that without ​the loader and backhoe the SEE should only be driven at max. 5mph, and within a service facility. I know, I know, it didn't make sense to me, either.

Glad you got it fixed! But while I frequently drive triple digit speeds in more road worthy vehicles, I don't understand what is nice about going 50 mph in a SEE. Okay, if somebody was shooting at me I'd gladly go that fast, and worry about the consequences later. Or if there was a pyroclastic...

Hey, my British cars haven't given me any trouble at all in the past year or so. Of course, that could partially be because so much time has been spent on the FLUs that I haven't been driving those cars. If you used Safety Seal to plug that tire there's no need to put a patch in it. Technically...

Good, then you should be all set.