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Darn. Not even in CA did they require a working odometer.

Well, so far that hasn't been an issue. There are one or two that are broken, and I told them that. Either way, as far as I know there's no law that says that you have to have a functional odometer - speedometer, yes, but not odometer.

Unless they force you to run a log, electronic or paper, how on earth would they know where you accumulated those miles? Like you, my problem is usually that I can't get many miles on the vehicles. By now the insurance company has learned that when I say "The odometer reads whatever it did last...

Too late for the advice now, but you could've saved some time by doing the fender trimming before installing the new springs. Using the 35s as a "cutting guide", of course.

There are times when we need to be careful about what we ask for. But better an eternally locked diff than open, I think. Other than tearing up the ground a bit, there's no real drawback that I can think of. Unless ...the dog clutch is only partially engaged. You may want to measure the distance...

They charge extra for the many "This page intentionally left blank" pages.

I can relate. Today I was surprised to notice that the FLU 10344 has 110 miles on it. That's 20 more than when I bought it almost two years ago, and I've even driven that one to the post office once. I may not live long enough to get 100 miles on it...especially if going in Reverse takes away...

It seems to vary from state to state what you can and can't do with classic/antique/historical plates. For example, when I got historical plates for my Peterbilt (to get away from CA's very expensive commercial fees) I was well aware that it should now only be driven to and from club functions...

Okay, I'm curious about how it could get out of adjustment in the first place. Linkages generally don't grow or stretch, so if it was fine to start with, what happened??

True, but on the other hand, when applying pressure, it's working against those 14.7 psi. With vacuum at least it works for us. To what degree it matters when it took a few hundred psi to to push the piston in is debatable.

Hey, you got it moving. Now it's "only" a matter of making it move freely. That'll probably take several on/off cycles. I would begin with doing it with one wheel up, then once the locker seems to work somewhat predictably, take it out and drive. It'd probably help to get in the habit of...

I think the strainer is adequate, but Mercedes obviously didn't take into account that many FLUs would end up sitting in rat infested woods for extended periods of time, sometimes without a fuel cap. Having done a fair share of strainer cleaning myself, having a larger one would be helpful. Or...

OSHA approved, no doubt. And that alone makes me want to copy your idea.

Okay, it's tennmogger that deserves the credit for this one.

So the locker engaged? Does it disengage, too? It sounds like you (we) owe whoever it was that suggested the grease gun method. Peakbagger, I think.

I don't regret buying a SEE either, which I got because of the backhoe. But on the other hand, I wouldn't want to give up the Kubota. Different animals, I think, and good at different things. And for someone who like challenges, the SEE is ideal. It sucks that you ended up with a leak, and if...

Ah, no wonder it got mad at you and broke - what did the poor thing do wrong to get driven into a busy city?!?

Maybe that's why man invented rifle drilled axle shafts?

Yes, and also tools and some "Ford wire". I'm way too lazy to walk, and not about to call AAA unless there's no other option. But for a busted throttle cable I'd probably just turn up the idle and go.

I knew you would ask...and I wish I could remember where I found it. Or if was even FLU specific. After two years of searching for FLU info I've unearthed a fair amount, much more than my brain cell can contain. I'll search the folder of saved stuff later, okay?