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If you look at it as an '86 K-30 it is far from unique. There are lots of choices out there for them.

Yep, LEDs are our friend. I've replaced both front and rear work lights with cheapy (8 bucks) ones from Amazon. One 12-24 Volt set died, but that was on the SEE that often pegs the Volt meter. Now I'm buying the ones good for up to 48 Volts. Either way, compared to the factory...

You didn't know? There's gorilla tape, duck tape, rat tape, all kinds of deterrent tape.

You may be over-thinking it on that lever. It's just there as a way to supply air to the trailer brakes without having to use the SEE's brake pedal (and brakes). For example, I often pull the lever a bit in the Pete, instead of setting the brakes, if I need to keep it in place while I check...

Fred?!? Okay, there are times when he does. Hopefully this is one of them.

I hope that's a trailer full of oil.

Sorry to hear that about your dog. Ours is a bundle of energy (okay, borderline hyper) even though he was described as very calm by the rescue. He expands his world by hundreds off feet per minute if not carefully monitored. About the SEE, if I can figure them out enough to keep them running...

I threw that out there without even knowing what standard 6.5 GEP engines go for, so I'm open to offers. In this case, your stock transmission may not be up for what this engine puts out (about 500 ft.-lbs. as I recall), but I also have a built 4L80E with an Atlas II that I no longer need.

Would you be interested in a complete, hot rodded (by GEP) engine? It's never been installed or run, other than on GEP's dyno.

Well, what sucks is when both axles are locked and having chains on all four doesn't do it. Haven't tried them out yet, but got some far more meaningful chains for this winter.

You have no idea how many times I've wished that your statement was true. But running locked front and rear sure has gotten me deeper into the gnarly stuff - also known as being harder to extract when finally stuck.

I'd gladly pay $2,000 for it. Not that I can think of a need for a slow dually that needs to be lowered and get new tires, but not having a logical reason for buying a vehicle has rarely stopped me in the past. Then there's the "...time, energy, money..." part.

The switch is near the pivot of the clutch pedal, and you can push it in by hand, too. But since it has to be activated for the SEE to start in the first place, it most likely either works or is bypassed. At one point I thought that the splitter didn't work on mine, or that the rpm difference...

I don't think having air to it has anything to do with the lever's operation. Or do you mean that the splitter is stuck in low? The few times I've put it in high, there really hasn't been much of a difference, so it always stays in low. Might be a noticeable difference on the road, but not in...

My 1008 is far from nice, yet it works great as a 4x4/farm workhorse. I think the nice ones deserve a better life.

Hey, great job! And it looks like you might've had fun doing it. Ask General Hood about the best remedy for the scratches, and which type of wax he favors these days. I would think that you'll need some sort of drain pipe(s) for overflow...or you can go in a fix any damage with the SEE, having...

Led Zeppelin? It comes free through the air on several stations.

Ouch, that sucks. I suppose you'll be looking for a tranny, or an entire FLU. On the positive side, you probably won't have to worry about how to put the original trans back together.

I understand why the rear shock mounts were made low; to avoid having the top of the shocks poke up through the bed. What I don't get is why the upper front mounts were made so low, and consequently the shocks so short, when there was plenty of space available.

I don't see why that wouldn't work. But while I've been concentrating on getting them lower (by using different tires or otherwise) it would still be easier and cheaper to use hydraulic cylinders, I think.