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A spritz of brake clean into 6 gallons of oil isn't going to do diddly. Engine heat will evaporate it in a hurry and it wouldn't be enough to change the oil characteristics even if it didn't.
My truck has ~13k miles on it. 2k from 2008 to 2019 and 11k from 2019 to today. No leaks.
These tires don't play that consumer product tire wear game. They are going to wear evenly unless the axles are WAY screwed up. This is heavy duty solid axle land with huge sidewalls. The tire is not going to tip up on an edge and wear down one side like a passenger car or truck - the forces...
Not really possible RE the bead lock centering. If you see how the wheels are constructed you will understand.
People have mixed results with balance beads. Works for some people and not for others. What pressure are you running? Try higher or lower pressure.
I have noticed that new tires or...
No problem - I have had to figure out that wiring on a number of occasions on my truck and others in the Motorpool so I have the wire numbers notated in my phone's digital notepad for quick reference.
Tell me the story about your winch/tool box/shackle extension. Haven't seen that before...
It's an O-Ring Boss port. -6 or -8 ORB would be my guess. They use straight threads and the o-ring does the sealing. Plug it back in with some WD-40 or Deoxit and wiggle the connection while the truck is running - it will probably show up on the gauge at least momentarily. If it doesn't - swap...
That's the correct sending unit. It's typically just the connector has a poor connection these use a Deutsch DT 3-pin connector and pins. You will find that both the oil pressure and the boost pressure sensor use the same connector and both are problematic - you don't want to plumb up some...
You can't go by the colors. Sometimes the colors and numbers aren't the same between different light manufacturers. I've witnessed this first hand with Grote and Trucklite being inconsistent. The numbers were correct but on the wrong color tags.
P8 -> 483/484
P9 -> 460/461
P10 -> 491
P24 ->...
I have never seen a pump with that selector lever on an FMTV. My truck is a 2008 A1R and doesn't have that lever.
Very strange. Since the lever serves no purpose but to complicate the situation I would get a normal FMTV pump and swap that one out.
That's absolutely excellent that the system is mechanically solid and any method of control that gets it working to your liking is all that matters.
My remaining concern is that we pretty much know for a FACT that you have wiring harness damage and we don't know where it's located - which...
I've run across an alarming number of relays over the years with burnt contacts that would pass a cursory voltmeter check but wouldn't carry any load. And plenty of circuits where 12v or 24v was present on a DVOM but when load is applied the voltage goes away due to corrosion somewhere in the...
I prefer to use an incandescent test light (scope on a rope) and a power source. This proves they can carry amps not just pass continuity.
Everyone that's inclined to troubleshoot and repair their own vehicle should have a test light (and a DVOM) and know the basics on how to use them.
I quite...
That heater is a waste of fuel and a waste of your time. Uses too much fuel, too much electricity, and takes up a tremendous amount of space. As Third noted - the military didn't give a crap if you could sleep in there - you would be on duty at a desk and likely expected NOT to be sleeping...
Unless you want to run the 60,000 BTU (not a typo) heater in the van - which requires AC power BTW - you don't need it to connect to anything. That heater is probably ~80 lbs and takes up the whole right side pod that can easily be used for a smaller heater or storage. I stuck a Chinese 12v...
The controller keeps throwing codes for the solenoid circuits - mostly the control solenoid but sometimes also the deflate and inflate solenoids.
The pressure switch signal wire has 300 ohms of resistance to chassis ground even when unplugged on both ends.
Did you check the wiring harness...
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