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If you want to figure out your own mounting, etc and don't mind it being clear plastic instead of blackout plastic - this is the same thing from the same company: https://www.amazon.com/Military-Shatter-Proof-Inclinometer-Humvee-Indicator/dp/B07B3141B3

They are easy to find: https://www.ebay.com/itm/354553804689

Valid. But there's going to be plenty of surplus and used on the market for the foreseeable future. The A1P2's still being produced by Oshkosh are using the same NSN that he purchased. Also it's an entirely non-essential system so while it would be convenient to order something from Autozone...

You're not factoring in the cost to make something else fit. He got that one for like $87 plus $15 shipping and it bolts in because it's the correct NSN for his truck. Even if you got a different part for the exact same price (or indeed slightly less) it would take time and hardware (money) to...

He got the surplus part for about* $100. 🤷‍♂️ *Edit - it may have been slightly over $100

It's not missing the AC per-se. It's a replacement cab (accidents happen), and as such you have to use parts from the old cab or order them separately. Same with the gas pedal. Why it comes with gauges..... 🤷‍♂️ My A1P2 seats came from a cab being scrapped because the truck was in an accident...

The weird thing is that this isn't the first A1P2 I've seen on the civilian market (and I'm not just talking about the Midwest Military 1083). I'm wondering if they are just going to sell them off like all the earlier trucks eventually. With the garrison glass installed it's not like it's truly...

The right way to do it is to pull the hubs (after removing wheels and drums), clean everything thoroughly and replace all the hub seals and the CTIS seals and backing rings, repack the inner bearings with new grease, and set the bearing preload, etc. Technically the military originally specified...

Pull the bearings. You now have grease/gear oil/brake cleaner contamination down in the CTIS seal areas of the hubs and there's plenty of crap still in there beyond the bearings that you will never get out with an aerosol can. Not a great way to button it up. Pull it all off and clean it...

One of the many benefits of the later trucks was the realization that the excessive driveshaft angles and speeds caused vibration and problems with fasteners all over the engine coming loose. Alternator bolts back out, the bracket for the air compressor and power steering hydraulic pump will...

Yeah I imagine they measured it with it fully compressed. Those measurements are from the part number specifications.

From what we can tell the A1R LMTV rear axle is literally the same housing as the MTV intermediate axle. It's got slightly different guts with no power divider and the output where the rear driveshaft would otherwise be located is blanked off. The TM refers to this axle as the "top feed"...

Don't trust that junk. The solder joints inside the potted box of doom hanging off the fore end of the unit can go and allow the wimpy ring terminal protuberances to loose contact internally. Or the diodes and tiny wires go to hell - often this can result in half of the unit flip-flopping and...

Yup. I blew tire on the interstate and spent about 3 hours in the back of the parking lot of an LA Fitness (upscale neighborhood) changing it out. Had the sheriff stop and ask if I needed any help. I said nope got everything I need but thank you sir! They asked if my truck was a Unimog and I...

I did avoid California on my trip. For a lot of reasons and on my list at the time was potential Imperial Entanglements but I suspect the more rural areas would be alright just like it is everywhere else. Cops are people too (so I'm told) and the vast majority of them are going to see you and...

You think that, but probably not. If you want the best mileage and if you don't yet have ECO hubs on the truck then you'll want to travel at 50 mph. Driving a bone stock M1078 - most law enforcement is going to assume you are military unless you demonstrate otherwise or blatantly break the law...

I've done it enough and seen it done enough that it really wouldn't concern me. Definitely rinse it well and the final rinse could be RO water or distilled water or whatever if you like. And then apply a fast evaporating electronics cleaner and finish it off with Deoxit on all the connections...

Put ECO hubs on it and you'll be much safer in terms of driveshaft vibration with the older low pinion rear differential. To be fair you have an early A0 truck and the early M35's weren't any better (considerably worse actually) in terms of reliability and teething issues. You have the A2...

Why not simplify the operation and just drive it with the factory wheel and swap it when you get home? You may not want to swap it after some experience. In military terms what you are doing is called a "Recovery Mission". This is where you get the unit back to base and all bets are off as to...

I see these "wood" abominations regularly on hot rods and resto-mods that come through my shop. Without fail they look like an absolute dumpster fire in a few years. Highly inappropriate for anything you are going to drive without white gloves and keep in a garage. They scratch and chip and get...