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Materials change, and lubricants change. Still, while I enjoy learning from this discussion I can't help but wonder if gear oil is called gear oil and automatic transmission fluid is called ATF for a reason.
It does seem to imply that those fluids are made for different purposes.
And then there...
Dang! I should've bought that fuel bowser and headed your way. Then again, it sold for so much that it would've taken many, many trips to make it pay for itself.
Sure, you can look at a new distributor (they can be pretty), but all you would need is new springs for what you have, if it's in good shape otherwise.
That makes sense, Ken. Thanks for the info.
Lifting it would be borderline for my crane, and I have no plans to do it anyway. But since plans are made to be changed, if it got lifted it would be by wheel nets, not the shackles.
Well, since ATF was invented long ago, I suppose that it wasn't developed enough to be used in early transfer cases.
Or nobody had thought of using it in such applications yet. Or its use was based on mileage gains. Or all of the above.
Gotta read that later, scottladdy, but for now I'm wondering if it was feasible to run an automatic on gear oil, would they?
I suspect that the hydraulic functions got first choice and the gears got to live with ATF as a result.
I'll never forget the surprise when checking the fluid levels in my new '91 V3500 after driving it home. I had not expected to see ATF in there. Sure enough, that's what the manual called for.
I put gear oil in there, like in every gear driven transfer case I'd ever owned, suspecting that it was...
If you're looking for one, there's a listing for a used one on the big auction site that starts with an e.
Don't use the word "torque" in your search and you should find it easily.
If you do end up using lift blocks in the rear, at least make sure they're not tapered, to "restore drive line angles".
If they are, either mill them flat, or get lowering blocks instead. Lowering blocks are generally not tapered, so your U-joints will remain at equal angles.
If you're going on a trip, I'd touch as little as possible. It runs, right? And if it's not too far, 4th gear should get you there.
What I would do is double check all the fluids and lube things.
Here's one for you guys with more CUCV experience.
Checked the vitals under the M1031 today in preparation of finally driving it some day, and noticed these brackets.
I don't recall seeing such brackets before, unless my '91 V3500 had them, and I forgot.
Also found ATF in the transfer case, and...
If you mean the 39x16.5-20 Pitbull Rockers, there's no comparison to the original Michelins.
In the limited snow testing I did (wet, but hub deep) they did as well or better than the Michelins with chains. Simple ladder chains, but still.
Haven't done much driving in regular dirt yet, but...
Well, I don't know if my use qualifies it as a true off-road truck as I do take it on the occasional 1 1/2-mile drive drive on pavement.
Normally it's used to dig ditches, move dirt and rocks, lift things, plow snow (technically blow snow, as I replace the loader bucket with a snow blower in the...
Hmm. My preference would be to have the front and rear lockers separately activated, and independent of 4WD (which I'd like to make lever operated).
Partially because I'm used to running 2WD low range in my Jeep, with a Detroit in the rear.
Another reason is that it can be beneficial to have...
Good use of a simple Class 8 valve! I should copy that idea, but will definitely separate the 4WD and locker functions.
Not only is it hard on the components to run locked, but I like the extra traction to be available as an option. In other words, I run 2WD until that doesn't work, then 4WD...
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