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For the solenoid to get hot it has to be getting voltage. Sounds to me like either the solenoid or starter are unhappy. Or maybe both. Try jumping it with a screw driver (or a more civilized remote starter setup) like General Hood suggested.

A this point I'd be tempted to squirt some sort of penetrant down the hole for the number two cylinder and see if it could loosen things up. Not knowing what the innards of a pump like this looks like, it may not work at all. But that wouldn't keep me from trying. Alright, in reality I'd look at...

Bummer.

When/if time allows I'll install hydraulic cylinders with shut-off valves in the rear of the SEE. I'll never be good enough to use the loader on the SEE for any kind of precision work, so I won't even try. In the rear I want the lockout to make it easier to cross ditches, but mostly to stabilize...

Why the Add-A-Leaf? Either the tire fits when you hit the bump stops, or it doesn't. Tin snips and/or a grinder are our friends. And you will probably get by with practically invisible cutting.

Mean, but effective.

If they really wanted the enemy to get confused, they should put a service manual for an '86 CUCV in the glove box. Then those poor saps would think "Hey, this thing looks easy to fix and keep in running order."

Of course they want this whole Ford thing secret. What good would it do if the enemy found out that the Fords they were given were supplied to give them problems and grief?

Unused doesn't necessarily mean new, unfortunately.

Nathan, each vehicle is a little different, so when it comes to drive shaft issues there's no clear answer, because it also depends on what you're willing to put up with. When I built my Jeep (in Europe) it ended up with a 25-degree rear drive shaft angle. According to the Spicer specs, that...

Yeah, I thought that photos would be all over the interweb, including old magazines now on line. Either way, getting parts from America isn't a big deal. Or at least it wasn't. Not much different than Unimog owners here chasing down parts in Europe, really.

Yeah, that selling price surprised me. But if one really needs or wants an HMMH, there's not much to choose from. Hopefully it was an SS member that bagged it so we get to learn more about that one.

I know the feeling, Nathan, having grown up in Europe. But that didn't keep me from buying (then current) magazines to get ideas from. There's a good chance, I think, that you could find someone selling their old collection on eBay over there.

Nathan, you may want to go to your local library. If they have Four Wheeler Magazine, look through the 1980 through 1990 issues. There should be hundreds of photos of lifted Chevys, ranging from two inches to ridiculous, an dozens of installation stories.

Okay, they're 255/85R16s, which is nominally just a hair over 33 inches. On 8-inch rims, by the way, so the hub still sticks out a little past the wheel.

I put 35x12.50R15s on 10" wheels on my first M1009, to be able to drive the freeways around L.A. Sure wasn't the best on the 8-mile stretch of 8% grade along the way home, though. Okay, I think an M1009 is a slug with stock tires, and it was really bad with 35s. A turbo, 700R4, and 4.10 gears...

I know, and it makes me wish I remembered the tire size on the uncut M1008. I think those tires are about 33-1/2, on late model offset wheels. Anyway, they do cause rub - on the drag link link, at full lock. But only when the tire chains are installed. I'll look at the size tomorrow.

With 35s on "normal" offset wheels, this is how much I cut on a 3/4-ton Suburban. And I think that a lift is largely irrelevant, unless the bump stops are lowered accordingly, or the springs so stiff that they don't really move much.

Nick, if it makes you feel any better, today the (formerly) parts SEE stopped running again. The strainer had about 3/4-inch worth of "black sand" in it. Looks like that tank has to come out, one way or another.

By the way, for those of you who always wanted a crane, but were too afraid to ask, there's one coming up.