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1)I can't say anything about how it fits in a 4 door truck or slantback, but yeah, it does take up quite a bit of space. Personally without a rearview mirror having something in the back of the truck (back when I drove a 1025A1 in the military) anything back of my view out the rear passenger...

Also, if you use it as a PDF you can use the "find" function to narrow down the amount of pages you have to look through to find a part.

That is what happened with me, but your mileage may vary. I'd try to at least keep it reasonable for when it might have been originally produced, but that's just me. Lying on forms submitted to the government should not be undertaken by amateurs.

yeah, I know that but I use it as a work truck, so registering it as a classic vehicle would put too many restrictions on how I could use it here. If I had purchased it for use as a hobby then it might have been tempting to fudge the paperwork like that, but I seem to have an honest streak in...

mine was also a 183xxx serial number M1123 from Barstow, with a 09/10 rebuild tag. There was a mix up and I had to send them paperwork a couple months after I picked it up to start the process. Basically just a blank form with a bunch of lines to fill out with things like VIN#, Year, Color...

Military trucks tend to run the fewest number of different fluids as possible, so it's not usually what's the best fluid for an application, it's what fluid is already being used that can also be used elsewhere. To my understanding civi H1s used power steering fluid not atf. Not sure what they...

used is often a crapshoot as to whether it's any good or not. Rebuilt really depends on who is doing it. There are some decent places, and others that are selling "rebuilt" motors using crap imported parts at massively inflated pricing. Not my personal experience, but from seeing lots of...

if you're seeing battery voltage at the regulator, then yes, it is unlikely the regulator stopped because it thinks the batteries are fully charged. No, those voltages are not too low for the excitation circuit to work, so that shouldn't be the issue. For the field col resistance, did you...

So it has been a few months since I installed the hitch, thought I'd give an update. No pictures as I haven't done anything spectacular, but I've towed a car trailer a couple of times with small cars on it, along with some other trailers. No issues with the hitch itself, or the wiring or brake...

other than having a little more tongue weight I don't see it being an issue. Drilling holes in the top and bottom of the frame is usually frowned upon as it weakens it, especially as that's the point with the most stress on it for a trailer, so might not be a bad idea to weld on some...

I believe that you can, but the 12 pin nato runs 24V, and civilian 7/4 runs 12V trailers typically, so either you'll need to change all the trailer bulbs to LED or use step down converters to bring down the voltage. It is very likely that the trailer had 12v bulbs installed when they changed...

for the smaller trailers (single axle like the 101 series and 105 series) most people tend to use the campers that slide into a normal pickup bed. I've seen a few odd things. I remember seeing a camper of some type mounted on a HEMMT, and I've seen an airstream mounted onto an old single cab...

16 inch rim with a bolt pattern of 8x6.5 is still pretty common. Heck, you can buy them down at Tractor Supply with tires already on them.

depending on how fast you use the fuel, you might want to paint the outside of the drums or cover them or something. Light getting into the fuel will greatly accelerate bacterial/algae growth in diesel.

the injection pump on these is mechanical, so there is no "charging the lines" while waiting for it to start. The amount of fuel going through the injectors each rotation is pretty small, so all you normally see is a drip when you crack the lines, because the way it injects is overcoming...

yup, not in the M998 manual, you have to check the manual for the newer trucks (M1151, M1165)

many/most of the spare parts should be interchangeable, but not things like half shafts or other things they upgraded for the A2 series. The A2 series uses 12k shafts, the A0 and A1 use 7 or 10k shafts. the 6.5 engine should have a little more power, the differentials will be geared a little...

I mean, we could give you a part number or two, but it's better to learn how to use the manuals for yourself. It also helps looking through the diagrams to understand how the parts actually go together, and whether there might be anything else you need.

Part numbers should be in the TM for that. I believe there may be an idler pulley that goes in that spot without the AC compressor there. Here is a long to the technical manuals section with all the TMs for the HMMWV. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/tms-for-the-m998-series-hmmwv.78861/...

no, the 804 is a 10 wire gen head, you should read earlier in this thread where it's emphatically stated this model can NOT be reconfigured to single phase.