Search results

first things first, have you used a laser thermometer or anything else to verify the temp gauge is accurate? This will tell you if it's a sensor, gauge, or wiring issue. Then after that it would be verify the thermostat is functioning properly (put it in a pot with water and a thermometer on a...

If fuel won't come out of the drain when cranking then I'd say you're looking at either a bad fuel pump, or a blockage in the fuel lines. Fuel not coming out the drain of the filter sort of indicates the lift pump isn't working, but not 100% sure. From what others have said there are some...

One side latch works, the other takes too much force and won't stay latched, it bent the bracket for the latch.I've talked to other people and the doghouses aren't that great of a fit more often than not.

I always have to sit down and push my feet against it in order to get them to turn and lock in.

the problem is that steel and aluminum don't play well together. Do a little research on "galvanic corrosion" if you don't already understand about it. Basically, if any moisture gets into the same area as bare steel and aluminum are in contact with each other, it will cause corrosion. Enough...

You can pick up the tires in 90% plus condition for a couple hundred most of the time. The rims are $25-50 each, and the run flats in them aren't usually considered to be worth anything, unless you really want them. You could probably get $400-600 for the pair depending on various factors...

So if this is like the other shelters I've seen or worked on before (only a couple times helping out in the motorpool) it's basically a frame, a whole lot of spray foam, and a layer of aluminum on the inside and outside. To make it longer would likely be a bit of an undertaking. You'd have to...

We know what you are trying to say, but there is no such thing as an "ignition pump" and it tends to irritate some people when a completely incorrect terminology gets used repeatedly.

okay, I was just double checking because I know on my M116A2 the H1 hub centric wheels I have lying around don't properly fit.

I thought these trailers use lug centric wheels, not hub centric. Will the hub centric wheels still work on them?

I know my M1123 that had armor doors removed before I bought it has the strikers with the flange. The regular strikers should work just fine; the supplemental armor door is just an X-door with some sheet metal over it.

technology has come a very long way since these units were built. The alternator setup makes a lot more sense back then because that's where the technology was. I've worked on 30-40 year old generators with battery chargers that involve heavy transformer coils and electronic control boards...

I bought a cheap bracket/light combo and bolted it straight up under the back of the truck just inside the frame rail. it was this bracket. I had to drill 2 small holes in the bottom of the body cross piece (thick aluminum) but other than that plug and play...

there isn't any one list anywhere as far as I know. The HMMWV was designed and built to government specs, and AM General only sold the H1 to the public because they could make obscene amounts of money by doing so. The only parts store parts you will find are usually for the H1, and don't...

Unless something is wrong with your set, there shouldn't be any draw, so no need to disconnect (unless you have added/modified it) With a solar panel/controller hooked up there is even less reason to disconnect, unless it's a really crappy charge controller that ends up drawing power from the...

That's pretty much how every home standby generator has been set up in the past 20 years (some have the charger built into the controller, others have a separate module). The newer ones even require their own 15 amp breaker from the house on the transferred side of the panel. Usually it's no...

I didn't see any numbers in the manual, but general rule of thumb is to run no more than 1/2 the rated capacity of the generator when operating split phase (120/240) for either side of the split. As these are 26 amps of 240, that's 26 amps each side for 120V, 5 amps imbalance is very little...

here is my thread about doing it on mine https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/rear-fender-condenser-questions.195910/

The above, plus it looks like the inventory control numbers, it's an M998, and it was likely labeled as HQ-20 as the bumper number.

For the aircon I'd recommend installing the fender mount condenser, rather than the Red Dot one. If you plan to never do anything else to the truck ever again and don't mind the loss of cargo space in back, then the Red Dot is fine, but if you might do a rear cargo cover or anything like that...