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I'd vote for a drop in replacement, assuming that would be the least expensive and easiest to swap out. ( especially in an emergency situation ) Expansion tank and a better filler neck design would be nice, but will no doubt add cost and complexity and I think many folks would prefer to keep...

FYI there's a sticky at the top of this forum with some tips on getting the pumps installed correctly. Quite often it can be a real bear if 1 thing is just slightly out of whack.

Interesting, it seems the PM system doesn't recognize you. Perhaps @patracy of @Guyfang can assist?

Hello, looks like you're too new here to send a PM, so I will contact you via private message with details.

Before slicing his nose and finger apart your father should have told him that he "heard" that peeing on the glue would help release it.... and IF that didn't work, the last resort is to cut them apart! :ROFLMAO:

I remember by grandparents buying some TANG when I was a kid... for when my brother and I visited them... it was like drinking orange flavored lumpy chalk! The super high chlorine content in the water really brought out the flavor!

How long do you typically let it set? This unit is a backup, so being down for a while is not a problem. I'd let it sit a week minimum, the more the better. Not sure of your machine's overall condition but being a 94' you should consider replacing the 3.5mm fuel return lines while you have the...

Interesting, never really thought much about differences in performance based on altitude, but makes sense. If you go the AFT route, just be aware that the center of the piston is a big giant dish, so you need to add enough ATF to fill and overflow the dish in order for it to get into the rings...

Do you get any light colored smoke for the first 30-60 seconds at cold start? Or just the normal quick 2 second puff of black at start up while the governor adjusts itself? If it smokes a little light gray/blue for 30-60 seconds, that's another indication of stuck rings = lowered compression...

Fuel lines at the pump and strainer are -4AN ( JIC-37*) If you need the hard line coming off the filter with the banjo fitting, I have that as well. if it's just your rubber lines going to the metering pumps that are leaking just cut the sleeves off and replace the hose with 1/4" rubber fuel...

I think you'll be the first to attempt a 12V conversion. Don't know of anyone ever going that route. Seems like a lot of effort for an unknown result and the risk or damaging more original components. Why not just repair it back to original? Doesn't sound like that big of a deal. If you need...

Can you send some pictures of the inside of the control panel? Maybe we can see what was done to the original wiring? Never seen anything like that before, only mod I've ever dealt with is the remote monitoring modification, which was usually neatly done and easily reversed.

Maybe you can better explain what you mean by surge? Is it having a hard time maintaining steady Hz while load is being increased? Or do the RPM's fluctuate up and down ( or hunt up and down )when not under load, or when the load is suddenly dropped? If so, that sounds like you need to adjust...

The lugs and receptacle are on 2 separate circuits in a sense. if the generator is showing power on the gage and no output from the receptacle, first thing I'd check is the GFCI reset on the face of the breaker. If that is not tripped, then check the circuit breaker switch for the receptacle...

Well you're getting there! It seems like 1 or more of the metering pumps is just on the edge of the fuel off position and may be letting a tiny amount of fuel reach the injectors. Verify the lever arm is touching the stop screw when you disengage the solenoid. If it in touching, try loosening...

OMG! that's unbelievable! barely a piece of sidewalk left!

The pumps are a little out of position, in 1 picture it seems to be almost 1/2 " away from the pushrod tube. Make all of them TOUCH the pushrod tube. The rotational position of the pump directly affects the metering pump pin's location relative to the pump body, which directly affects fuel pump...

Sounds like you're misunderstanding me. Rotate them Counter clockwise so the fuel line is touching the pushrod tube on the right side of the pump. Sounds like you are currently between the bolt and pushrod. It sounds like you are imagining this the other way, trying to touch the pushrod on the...

Yup... Typo! , I can't even spell "THE" correctly ;)

If the engine won't quite shut down when the fuel lever is fully forward, either the pumps are out of position ( should be rotated fully counter clockwise until fuel inlet hoses are touching the pushrod tubes ) or the fuel lever stop screw needs to be backed out a little bit, allowing the rack...