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In the way of what?? You may be old, but you still run circles around 99% of us here! :ROFLMAO:

Very strange that it won't come out nor slide down as Guy suggested. Keep at it, the aluminum tube does adjust within the black mounting collar. If oil doesn't help try lightly tapping on the black tube, then try tapping down on the aluminum center tube, careful for the wires. Once you get it...

If you have the rear cover removed you can disconnect the 4 wire plug and jump the float switch to check it. ( note, the pump doesn't run when the tank is near full ) If you jump the float and still don't have power at the aux pump, the float control module mounted to the right of the fuel tank...

You should have 24V when both probes are in the plug. Sounds like you have no ground connection in the plug... time to consult the schematic and see where the ground comes from in that plug.

Above is correct. The wraps through the CVT are different and wire length is different. The thing is, to change the wrap count requires the same amount of work as changing the CVT. PM sent about a replacement 003 AC box.

Yup, sounds like your pump is dead. Especially if it's a Facet cube style pump.... those are notoriously bad!

PM sent.

Gotcha Joe... and Guy! Let me see if I have a good used panel as well as the new NOS panel and I'll PM you with a price either way.

In reality you only need to replace the CT/CVT assy, but to do so requires you to disconnect the power wires that are looped through it, not an easy task, but not impossible either. I have a complete AC box off an 003A, but they are not cheap. I may also have a spare CVT assembly, but need to...

I've used this place several times for belts for everything from band saws, snow blowers, backhoe etc. Some as cheap as $5 each. No good in an emergency or for 1 or 2 belts after shipping cost, but definitely worth checking out is you need several belts for a project a few days later in the...

That is your battery charging fuse and should be 30A not 2A, but that should have nothing to do with your problem. Can you confirm you get the same results with both the dead crank and main S1 switches?

By " both positions" I assume you mean the dead crank switch and the S1 start switch? I's start by confirming your E-stop switch is pulled out, the 7.5A circuit breaker inside next to the F1 alternator charging fuse is pushed in and if those all check out, verify the CR1 diode on the panel in...

Well the problem isn't the length, it's that the 803 has a vertical wall with an extra lower tank section that the 802 doesn't have. If the top of your tank is a little warped the sender can sit a little crooked and the float may rub on that vertical wall. Shortening the sender to 8" or 200mm...

As for gasket sealer, there's nothing wrong with a thin layer of a quality gasket maker ( not pure silicone ) like Permatex, you can also use gasket shellac on the paper gaskets. For the fuel gage, there's dozens of posts on here regarding replacing your float arm unit with a WEMA marine unit...

Curious why you chose to go with six 6 volt 4.5 AH batteries instead of just using a pair of 18AH or 21AH 12V sealed batteries?

The governor going to W.O.T when you begin cranking is correct operation. The governor won't start pushing back against the spring until it starts and gets up to speed. The excessive white smoke while cranking and slow starting ( as well as your delivery valve being previously stuck ) is an...

Ok, I misunderstood on the lever vs. the delivery valve being frozen. The governor / Fuel shut off solenoid is the large electronic solenoid that pushes down on the IP lever to shut the machine off. The other device you're describing sounds like the centrifugal switch the disengages the starter...

Something else to note, the governor assembly itself does not have any ability to increase throttle ( or increase engine speed ) The spring is always trying to pull the linkage up, giving the engine full throttle. The only action the governor can take is to push back harder and harder against...

Seeing the you had issues with the throttle lever being stuck, I'm wondering if you either still have a sticky throttle control lever ( unit ) or there is also a good chance the plunger guide inside the injection pump has skipped due to the sticky linkage and presumably a sticky plunger inside...

At this point you really should just pull the entire radiator housing off. I've done it several times and takes less than 20 minutes but will give you full access to everything you need to see and you can use an impact to remove the crank bolt with no need to wedge the flywheel or anything! Plus...