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Sounds correct, so you're running 4 conductors to the transfer switch, correct?? 2 Hots, 1 Neutral and 1 Ground.... You don't really want to ground the machine separately at the shed, you want to be running your neutral and ground as separate conductors back to your main panel. From there the 2...

The SX-460 says you "may" have to wire in a manual field flash switch, but I've never needed to. Perhaps if the gen has been sitting a LONG time you may find the need to flash it, but probably not. If you go with the surplus original regulator I don't think you would need to manually flash...

You'll have to do a bit of testing to confirm, BUT the VR on those machines is definitely a known weak point. I've swapped every 016X that has ever crossed my doorstep over to an SX-460 regulator. You can find the Chinese ones for under $25, and they have always worked well for me. Pretty...

On the transducer, Forget trying to get the original replacement, the price ( if available ) tends to be outrageous. However there are 2 other solutions. 1) there are tons of digital and analog gages available that are direct reading, allowing you to eliminate the transducer. 2) There was a...

Don't forget to use your Kelvin Bridge!

Here's a link to the TM page you want... https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/all-the-tms-you-need-to-work-on-the-mep-002a.155935/

FYI, the manuals are all available at the top of this web page in the "TM" area, just follow through till you find the 002 or 003 It is physically impossible for the ACTUAL frequency to drop as engine RPM increases. If you are judging it by your Hz meter on the generator, your frequency...

Also, give us a run down of what you have checked / tried so far. That will help us determine if you have an issue with the governor / fuel delivery / etc.

You don't want to know how many mast clamps, cable reel holders, jerry can mounts and fire extinguisher mounts I've chucked over the years! Was letting them pile up, but never found a viable use for much of it so eventually scrapped a lot of it.

Once 2-10 are removed just bang the bottom of the pump on a block of wood and the plunger should drop out of the center "Tube" if I recall, but it's probably gummed up in there, so you may have to soak it in acetone / carb cleaner first. It's just a metal slug that vibrates back and forth within...

Definitely sounds gummed up to me. Take it apart and clean everything and reassemble and should be good. Pay close attention to #9 and the downward tip of #11, those are check balls and need to move freely and seal properly in order for it to pump fuel. Give it 24V and it should click rapidly...

To your original question, YES the tie bar is the L0 / Ground bonding strip. Remove it and run a 4 wire feed to your main panel / disconnect switch in order to maintain a single point ground connection at your main panel.

Agree with Guy, take it off and see if you can get some lubricant into the end near the knob. Since that area is always exposed to the weather, it's not uncommon for them to sometimes get frozen up.

Well, keep a close eye on the voltage output. In my experience when the voltage goes up to 320, that typically means one or more of the 3 transistors on the VR is going bad. In the past I would normally replace all 3 transistors, but now @kloppk offers a sweet replacement VR that drops right...

Definitely good to hear you have it running good again. As CB said, I have to wonder if bending the arm is compensating for something else being out of whack. Reason I say that is 1) there's little chance that the arm got bent while in use in your possession and 2) one of the specific pictures I...

LITD is correct that the fitting on the outer gen enclosure is 1/2" NPT. The confusion might be due to a couple factors, the holes in the engine itself are 3/8" NPT threads and the 002/003 series machines are 3/4" NPT threads. Now, to add to the confusion... EVERY trailer mounted 802 and 803 I...

Will the contactor function if you push up on the switch and hold it up? Or will it not work at all? Also, are you verifying the contactor functioning by checking for power output at the lugs or looking for the green light to illuminate? I'm not sure what you mean above by "contactor held open"

I'm having a little bit of difficulty following you, perhaps due to the lack of punctuation etc., but regardless, have you tested the contactor itself to verify it works before going any further with testing the wiring? I'm not following exactly how you are testing, but the contactor circuit...

Nice job on the pin. Did you put a little gasket maker on it to prevent an oil leak?

The TM says "Smooth side" towards the governor flyball cover. By smooth side I believe they mean the curved side, as that would minimize any friction.