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The differences between the A2 and A3 are minimal that I'm aware of: high-clearance axle (which is a touch wider to match the track width of the Humvee), brake cables, and fender spacing. Everything else is the same AFAIK, and you really can't tell the difference from a distance.
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My vote is for the M101A2...or even better a 101A3 without the Humvee wheels & tires (get a set that match your truck). Given your choice of tow vehicle, the A2 was specifically intended to go behind that truck and they make a great pair...tho the A3 can fit a 4x8 sheet of plywood inside the...
What model do you have?
If you can't find a reputable individual, take it to your local Cummins dealer or whatever dealer for the engine that's in it.
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Jack's in Tuscon might have something for you.
Side thought: drivelines are a very simple thing and are built from scratch regularly in driveline shops. All that is needed to recreate yours are simple measurements and what u-joint is on either end...they don't even need the truck there to do...
I see some indicators that appear to predate the 101 series trailers. It's definitely not a M416. I'd wager it likely was some type of military trailer. How is it registered and what's listed as the manufacturer and model on the title?
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That screams intermittant faulty voltage regulator, IMO. Double check all your connections for tightness before you start troubleshooting!
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My vote is either should work fine. Not enough head pressure difference to matter. Trial & error will tell the tale in time.
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A couple CUCV specific sources:
@cucvrus (you can message him directly)
Hilbilly Wizzard
Jack's Surplus
Also, have you checked with a local driveline or suspension shop? Remember, it's just an 84 K30 to them.
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That part is not a military specific part, so it will be easily found by most places that deal with the 73-87 Squarebody trucks, you may even find it at your local parts store like Napa. Tell them you have an 84 K30 with the 6.2L Diesel and TH400 trans...do not tell them you have a CUCV, it...
The answer to your question that I've deduced is...it's all a matter of personal preference. There's some that will preach their opinion like it's Gospel, and some just go with whatever be it cheaper or ease of availability. Some guys like conventional, some synthetic...some like blondes, some...
Start here. Go to this page and download everything you can except the LSSV and fire truck stuff.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/forums/cucv-tms.114/
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The coolant sensor is in the head, not the radiator. Download the TMs from the SS TM area, and it will tell/show you the location in the removal/install task.
If you want an additional sensor for somethinglike a physical/mechanical gauge, the heads are identical, so there's an unused coolant...
You mean at the transfer case?
I'm betting the little gears are in need of some fresh grease so things are getting bound up.
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I put a piece of pigmat under it and a red solo cup around it once I break it loose. The little bit that doesn't get caught easily cleans up with a spray of brake parts cleaner.
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In addition to your list already running:
-Add fresh filters and a coolant flush to your list of goods to do when you do your oil change
-check your fan belt and keep a spare close at hand
-if you have rodent problems where you live, consider proofing your enclosure with the 1/4" expanded mesh...
Yep, I have a 116 and a 101 with the same...that is your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN)...both of mine are also stamped on the top of the left frame steel on the tongue.
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4L80E swap is good as it gets for fundamental simplicity and form & fitment. The civvy Squarebody guys have been swapping them in for decades, and in most cases it only takes a few hours.
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