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I stand corrected! Please stand by while I go throw really big rocks at my POL buddies who gave me bad info. My bad, sorry Coach...hopefully the rest of the junk I typed isn't bad also.
Are you aware of any guidance that refers to how the set should/shouldn't be loaded or ran during the 100 hr post reset time frame?
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According to the tags included with my personal machine, the break-in oil isn't due until the 100 hour mark. Some may disagree, but that would leave me to believe your machine technically isn't broke-in yet.
I understand there's break-in criteria/guidance, tho I'm not familiar with where in...
@kloppk has a sweet little kit (for a very reasonable price) that will remededy that for you. He also includes a MOV that is an additional safeguard for the machine.
It has been strongly recommended numerous times in various threads to not operate the machine without these safeguards installed.
Often misquoted in regards to fuel quality.
Red dyed Diesel (properly named #1 Diesel or DF1) has only 1 physical difference from non-dyed Diesel (#2 or DF2 or Jet-A) and that is the dye itself. The dye is added solely to identify that road taxes are not included in the price per gallon and for...
Just for clarity, Uncle Sam didn't do that...the blue county that runs your red state did. If you decided to find refuge in a different state, that wouldn't be an issue for you any more.
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It's been brought up a few times that I've seen here. My suggestion has always been to call eTrailer with your inner and outer bearing numbers to see if the can match it up with a hub and a drum that fits the Dexter axle brakes...tho nobody has come back to report their findings. If you're dead...
It's been a while since I've done much of anything as we've relocated to Central NV for new jobs. I figured adding the pic I took just before we moved from AZ would be a fun add. In the pic I finally got all the fuel can mounts reinstalled and the cable reels bolted down. The rear chest is still...
I've known some folks and read many threads where the house load is less than what would keep the 803 from wet stacking. Many have chimed in before to say that for purposes of back-up/stand-by power, short-term light loads are not anything to lose sleep about...these are "prime power" sets, and...
And then no sooner does my last update post and I look over and it has bogged down again shaking like crazy because I didn't catch it in time, and now it's back to not wanting to load over 80%...ugh!
Edit: crap, totally forgot to check heat temps with the lazer gun...double ugh!
Sent from my...
Update for the day:
Last night took some Deoxit to the S1, S6, and S8 that I was suggested to do.
Today I set out for videos and ruling-out the S7. Flipped the S7 switch, indicator light came on as expected, had no effect.
Video 1 was just to see it run and try to document the behavior...
Sounds like same symptoms, yours just pulls more before it starts. Will it pull that 6300 for as long as it has fuel? I'm inclined to think mine is fuel related, ex sticky IP rack. A buddy in Phx who works on these often suggested cleaning the contacts in the phase switch behind the control...
I had a great reply all typed out and the app froze...lost all the awesome, gonna try to do it again.
I've shared your thoughts before when I was doing my initial testing on my other/first 802. At our previous residence in N AZ at 6860 ft I was able to load it at 110 PRC with a resistive-only...
Several members have parts units, give them some time to see this. Option 2 is to locate the part in the TM, then Google the P/N and NSN...lots of parts are making their way to eBay along with several online retailers that specialize in this niche.
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