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That picture is of the circuit board inside the VR. Circled items are the diodes that can short out damaging the Quad winding and wrecking the gen head.

I'd wait until the Fuse Mod is installed. Not worth the risk of burning up your gen head. I wouldn't run it until then.

Yes it's needed. Without it you risk burning out the stator in the gen head. It's to protect the gen head if the VR fails and shorts out. A design flaw in the factory VR.

My guess it's an 831A. If so... The leftmost relay K12 is the Fault relay. When you move S1 to Run the LED in K12 will be on. Once started it should be off (no faults). K12 has nothing to do with the primary fuel pump. The pump should run when you have S1 in Run. Download the TM from the TM...

Sending PM

The tubes do not come apart despite what the TM seems to show. It's just the TM's way to illustrate the float tube passes through the round gasket.

1) Verify the two fuses on the VR are both good to be sure the Input and Output fuses are OK. 2) Start the generator and verify you get about 120 volts AC at the outlet with S1 is in START. This verifies if your set is Flashing AND it's generating the expected voltage. 3) Start the generator...

Yes

E2 negative comes from TB4-10

Out of curiosity about that I rolled my 1030 out this morning to do some tests to see what the voltages on the legs would be with un-balanced and balanced loads. The loads were a pair of 1,500 watt 120 volt heaters. No load. Both L1 & L2 voltages at 120 VAC 1.5 KW load L1 to Neutral & 1.5...

So it dead cranks OK but no power to the panel. Any chance the red Emergency Off button is pushed in? Put the Dead Crank switch in NORMAL and check for 24 volts at: - both used terminals on the Emergency off switch - both terminals on CB1 - terminals 2,4,6 & 8 on S1 - terminal 2 on S2

To facilitate tracking down electrical issues with the MEP-802A and MEP-803A I put together 3 PDF's and a page of notes. 1) PDF document is a table of all the individual wires in the MEP-802A and MEP-803Aand is sorted by wire number 2) PDF document is a table of all the individual wires in the...

Interesting the DCS shows both the L1 & L2 Genset and Bus Voltages being different and the same voltage. Maybe verify the voltages at the lugs with a good meter to figure out if they are indeed different. I noticed your Oil Pressure is kinda low. My 1030 runs around 59 PSI on the DCS.

Ignore the Aux Fuel Pump power for now. Focus on getting power to the primary pump. It's needed to run the engine. The Aux fuel pump only refills the tank with fuel. It does NOT provide fuel to the engine.

With S1 in Prime/Run the primary fuel pump E2 should get +24 volt power from the Fault Relay K12-1. Here is the wiring patch to check along for +24 volts to the Primary Fuel pump. J13/P13 is the 2 pin fuel pump connector Wire...

The primary fuel pump E2 should run as long as S1 in in Prime/Run, Prime/Run/Aux or START as long as there are no engine or fuel Faults on the Fault Monitor. K12 is the engine fault relay. Normally the contacts in the highlighted path is closed unless there is an engine fault. S1-3 is the "Run"...

TB-3 is one of their favorite places to build a nest. Bastids!

I know it's a bit tedious but if it were me, I'd switch the plate back to 416 and see if the outlet voltage goes back to 120 volts.

The voltages you posted look about right. In post #14 you had 120 volts at the outlet with the replacement VR installed with the reconnection plate in the 416 position. After moving the reconnection plate now you only have 88 volts at the outlet? Got me scratching my head on this one!

The K2 relay is known to get corroded inside causing it to not close causing the no crank problem. They can be disassembled and cleaned to correct that.