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Ask Wes about what they are for. When a green camo truck is traveling in the middle of the night with two tiny red tail lights and two tiny reflectors on an Autobahn at convoy speed, and a besoffen driver in a BMW comes up to them at 160 km/hr, someone is bound to die. The delineators give...

If you do a lot of Googling, you might be able to find factory original data plate images with similar dates of delivery, that will have the mfgr on it. I think the mfgr is Stevens for that year but I could be wrong. Nice trailer btw.

That is not the original, that was applied during an overhaul. The original would have the mfgr printed not stamped on it.

I did when I did this mod 25 years ago. I think it’s possible to figure it out from the Kascar or HPG website. The viscous clutch is from a 90’s Chevy 6.5 truck.

Why on earth would someone drop $700 on that? Just use H1 parts.

Its 3276, sounds spot on to me?

Are you looking for basic or supplemental (5/8” thk)? Size is 20x14 and I plan to get pieces made locally and make sandwiches with silicone pookie around the perimeter to keep water out.

Sweet! Carnac’s list confirms your numbers. See where I drew the line, yours fits in the sequence perfectly. The registration number on your glove box door is what needs to go on the hood. Canrac’s list is missing the 00 as I am sure the database wouldn’t accept leading zeros.

Yes! We don't have those stateside.

You don't have a PTO. What are you even talking about.

It’s not clear to me if you have a transmission or transfer case PTO. On the transmission PTO, you don’t have to engage any transmission gears to engage the PTO.

Can you extrapolate anything from CARNAC's file on M62s? I am pretty sure the registration number for 1950's trucks should be all numerical.

See all the trucks with the "delineator" plates required in European theater. I wonder if anyone has ever counted the number of men and machines that the US has sent to Europe over the years to deter USSR/Russia?

Date code on the tire?

I do believe that the pin is an aluminum alloy. Replacing with a steel pin guarantees that you will bust the aluminum winch housing. If your load shears the pin, you need to be using blocks.

915A1s are set up like that, refer to TM?

Will you be hauling round bales or square bales with one of these?

A pro radiator shop will unsolder the tanks from the core and run rods through the tubes and remove the “basic junk” which plugs the flow.

Get the radiator rodded out is my suggestion

Yes. This is a very tricky process as the oil pump drives the distributor. When you pull the pump out, it turns due to the helical gear. So basically it is impossible to re-stab the pump and have it re-engage the tab on the distributor. My suggestion: roll the engine to #1 cylinder top...