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And possibly even a second generator!

I keep thinking about the spring you mentioned in the filter. You had good pressure before you added the spring? It has been a while since I had one of these apart but isn't that spring in there to hold the filter seal to the block? If it was not in there then there would not have been any...

I would skip the STP, I am not a big fan of oil additives. Modern oils are well equipped with all that is needed. I did a rather large test for a very well off gentleman I maintained a fleet of old vehicles for and we came to the conclusion that the additives did no good at all over the factory...

How did the oil look that came out? Besides black, any gummy stuff or chunks. Or excessively thin from diesel fuel? Try putting straight 40 weight in it and see if that brings it up. If it does then you are probably looking at bearings.

How many hours are on it? And what color is it? Reason I ask the color is to see if it was in the sandbox. If so it may be sandblasted. I have heard of some that came back minus air filters and the engines were worn out due to sand inclusion. Many other horror stories from there. I think...

Starter clash, if you have it you will definitely know it! That is when you hit the start switch and instead of cranking the engine the gears don't quite engage in time and they make a horrendous grinding noise. If you have to question it then you don't have it. LOL.

In the pic of the bus bar the third wire from the left on top looks like it may have a loose or dirty connection from the decolorization on the terminal. You might want to take them all off and clean them and reinstall and see if that does anything. Probably not but bad connections can do...

Be sure to put a voltmeter on the batteries to verify what the panel is saying, If it is in fact 35 volts you will need to disconnect the charging circuit. I don't know how but I think I know a couple people on here that probably do. From what I have heard that battery charging regulator can be...

It seems the gaskets that come with the new canister filters are garbage. I sometimes think the gaskets are as old as the technology. I also fought with mine for over and hour before I got lucky and it stayed on. That was a couple years ago now. I have just stayed with that gasket since then...

You bring your RPM up to where the Hz is correct on your meter and then you adjust the voltage knob on the panel to get the correct voltage. Once set you can just leave it alone. Be sure to set your unloaded frequency at 61 hz so when it is loaded it evens out at 60.

If you idle them the voltage regulator will keep trying to increase the voltage until it burns out. I was told that years ago when I first got mine, never idle it!!!! One thing I don't remember seeing in this thread was if the fuel pumps were ever checked for flow and or cleaned? I am guessing...

Definitely get your frequency up to 59-61 Hz or you can burn up the VR. Those old meters are notorious for being wrong.

I was hoping you would change the oil, it is only a couple quarts and like you said cheap compared to the engine. You have no idea what was in there.

Why would it not work on an AC circuit? Current is current AC or DC.

I think I would find a resettable circuit breaker!!!!!

You might want to at least open the oil drain just a hair to see if any water comes out. If it does then you will want to do the oil change first. Condensation will put water in the oil over time. You don't want to pump water through it after all you have done.

Multimeter or just replace it with a new fuse.

And there they are already!!(y)

I am sure the experts will chime in with the technical details but I am thinking basics here. With all the thrashing to find the source of the problem go back and make sure the oil pressure gauge did not just get disconnected at the sender or the wiring up to the gauge. The charging may be a...

Don't you think you ought to find out if it runs before doing TOO much extraneous work on that set?