Search results

You can plug in with a regular heavy truck diagnostic reader and get basic engine codes. The military has a laptop they can use for diag but the civilian code reader is quick and easy for most stuff. Bad batts, batt connections, low voltage of any sort cause issues. Some of those trucks have a...

I bent it a bit, fit right in thank you. And the fuel sender appears to work now that its connected. Will

I have a mep 816. Runs fine makes power. The pickup tube was loose when I got it. It’s a very long tube for the tank size. It seems too long to fit. Is there some magic trick I am missing? And the start switch has aux prime and prime. Aux prime runs the only electric pump that I see in the gen...

The truck can be put back together. It’s just a matter of how much you want to invest in it. I don’t see any forklift damage on the driveshafts. All the stuff it’s missing is the high demand parts with low availability. It’s not a truck that you would be able to drive off the lot.

No. I will take it to my local hyd shop. Unless I can see a physical issue I am not good at hyd troubleshooting. I don’t have a flow tester.

I think the plugs will be straight forward. The 3 black wires are 12 24 and ground. You can use a multimeter to identify them. They can be extended if they are cut too short.

The clutches squeal sometimes. Maybe your fan clutch solenoid is sticky. Or your fan clutch is worn. The earlier style fan clutches dont seem to grab as hard as the newer ones.

His is the printed circuit board style. 3126 trucks only used one style board. His trans control is wtec3. The computer is visible in the pic. I think the 3126 only had wtec3 anyways.

There are relays in the vim module that can prevent crank. If you turn the dash switch on and the trans control comes on, and you have power to the fuel solenoid, then go to the drivers frame rail and jump the aux solenoid to crank.

I spoke to a guy who won one at one of the first few auctions. Sold him a couple parts. His euc hadn’t cleared yet though and he was into his 3rd month waiting.

So the blue plug goes into the trans computer. I can see it upper left of the pic. I don’t see any cut wires in the pic. Maybe I am missing them. The white plugs go to the bottom of the power panel. The black wires are your 12 24 and ground. I hope there are no batteries in your truck right now...

I have the power panel and have some dash harnesses. Post pics of your dash area.

Buying all those little parts piece by piece would be very expensive. You can usually get away with the cup seal and a bumper. The bumpers disintegrate over time and then bits get into the system.

There is basic troubleshooting. Alot of stuff says to notify higher level maintenance. I dont have the hyd flow testing equipment anyways. Theres a local hyd shop I have used in the past to rebuild cylinders. I might take it over to them see what they think. I spoke with one of the local unit...

I am beginning to think I don’t have enough flow to the upper bank of hydraulic controls.

Took apart the bypass control. Cleaned up nice and it moves now but no change in symptoms.

I get pairs of 6tls from interstate. 360 for two with core exchanges is wholesale cost.

And the A1 trucks are especially sensitive to low voltage. They don’t like it and won’t operate.

A1 trucks require 12 and 24 volts to start and operate. A lot of the relays operate on 12 volt. Slaving up 24 volts will not give you the 12 volts you need if your batteries are totally bad.

The outriggers go down I have the square pads. I do it till the truck comes up slightly in the back take the load off the tires.