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My truck has the updated HVAC ducting on the dash. It also has this one duct which seemingly runs from the passenger area, inside the tunnel, then out at the drivers feet. I get little to no airflow through it at all. It doesn’t look plugged up? I’m thinking of closing it off to quiet down...

My town is dealing with some ice and snow from this big storm that’s hit a lot of the country. My wife jokingly asked if I’d take the humvee out today because of the snow. I didn’t, and I was just out in my F150. while driving, my ABS braking system activated a few times, and I wondered what...

So you already have a new donor truck? Do tell

Mogman- this is an old thread and I was reading it just bc I was bored. But I am curious about the electrics, why did you convert everything to 12v?? Could you have fit a dual voltage regulator under the hood and ran a dual system? Or do they make 24v starters for the Dmax? re-wiring for all...

So it’s like super duper important. Got it lol

See photo

Got a link?

Really? I have searched and haven’t been able to find any.

Well dang. Do you think a small motorcycle battery would be enough? I have one of those laying in the shed. This is the only load it would have.

I do have a good Orion unit already. But no (third)12v battery. So pulling 45 amps off the regulator is a bad idea. But pulling 45 off the Orion unit should be ok even without a battery for storage right?? It’s rated for 70 like you said. Ps I’m thinking this would be for airing up tires...

Hey guys- would the 12v from the dual voltage alternator be enough to power a pump like this? Here’s another brand, but I don’t see anything about amp draw, nor do I know how many amps you could steel off the 12v post...

Ahh duh I didn’t notice that 21” mark. So did you get your measurements from the OEM carrier? Where did you find C channel like that? I’ve only ever seen it with this profile:https://www.metalsdepot.com/assets/files/Catalog_Photos/MetalsDepot-channel.jpg I like how yours keeps the tire...

This is awesome, thank you! I had the same idea, these dimensions will be a huge help. How much spare length do you have on your ratchet? The 8-9” throw made me wonder Do you recall what this angle was?

That’s awesome. This is exactly what I was looking for.

Has anyone tried making one? I’ve thought about it, using one of these as the adjustable link. But I’m not sure if there’s enough range in the threads. This one is 9”...

What’s beltfed?? I also did not know they still make these? Can you really buy them new??

Well after all this, I think it was just a blown fuse. Only after checking my grounds, I found a strange fault light, which lit even with the fuse removed. The dull LEDs also lit with no fuse. I had checked the fuse before, and it didn’t look bad, but it was more obvious this time I guess...

I think the rock lights are 12-24v I don’t have a switch wired in yet, because of this voltage drop issue. but I bought a bank of rocker switches. I’ll include pics but again this problem exists without these installed. The Orion gets power straight from the batteries. It’s been working...

With the truck running my Orion is putting out 15v (output voltage is adjustable I think between 16-10v) at the unit but 13.33v at my fuse block. I have 13.33 volts at my switch box too.

I bought a box of small led lights labeled “rock lights”. I installed them as reverse lights and because I had an extra, an interior dome light. I am powering these lights with that Orion 12v converter. When running the wire I kept checking my circuits with a 12v battery charger to make sure...