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I found a vinyl cap that fits, and put it on mine. It still leaves it completely audible, but significantly less annoying. Like the black one in the middle.

There is a lot of truth in this, in so many ways. Many people also like the FEELING / LOOK of capability a lot more than they actually like real CAPABILITY... true of many of the FMTV expedition rigs out there, and most of the "pavement princess" suped-up Jeep Rubicons parked at the grocery...

Yeah, stuff like this poses interesting challenges in an LMTV. Totally different problems than the Jeeps have. You're 8' wide, on trails carved out for vehicles 6' wide (e.g. Jeeps, Tacomas). The people that talk about "picking a line with your LMTV" probably haven't tried it... you often...

I wonder how hard it would be to add that?

As an example, here's one of the few videos I've posted online. In 15 minutes of video, I pass 6 vehicles (one of which was some kind of HMMWV offroad tourist trip!), and some bikers. My truck is just an M1078 cargo truck, not an M1079 or expedition box, but you'll see I have some issues with...

Annual town Cleanup Day... you get to bring two free TRUCKLOADS, haha.

Around here in the western states, almost anywhere you take an expedition rig will be "wheeling with Jeepers", if only because the Jeepers are everywhere. If it's any kind of a trail (more than just a dirt road), there is nearly constant traffic from offoaders, UTVs, dirt bikes, mountain bikes...

This part doesn't make sense. Maybe you misunderstood him? That is exactly why the phasing is so critical, and 180° is the worst case. Even if it hadn't been balanced, it could easily be mostly in balance assembled correctly, and terribly out of balance 180° out of phase. Think about it...

If you haven't driven these offroad yet/much, they are a big change from conventional consumer vehicles (e.g. Jeep, K5 Blazer, etc.). It's a lot of pro's and con's, not just better or worse. For positives, you have 47" tires and 26" of ground clearance, so you can drive over mini-fridge sized...

Part numbers (for 3116 engine) are here in my Common Issues document in my signature.

One of my thoughts: Certainly the engine doesn't actually use all 7 gallons that are in the pan at once. The engine is probably only using a gallon or two. The rest is just there as extra capacity to rotate into circulation. So if you didn't drop so low that the oil sump pickup wasn't in oil...

The next post, right after yours, is me providing a rather in-depth explanation about flexible vs solid lines. If you change to a flexible hose, and your compressor bracket comes loose, the first sign you'll have of a problem will be a cracked front housing. But the hose will be safe...

Solid lines are generally a longer lasting, more survivable line, when you don't need articulation. They also flow better, so if you use a flexible line, you'll want to upsize it.

Doesn't seem like parts are very hard to get for the 3116. All the parts I've gotten from the local heavy duty truck supplier have either been in stock, or in their local warehouse for delivery in a day or two. The engine is the easiest part of the truck to get parts for, it seems.

Yeah, I knew what you meant. The failures we are seeing, in similar cases, from the driveline problems are metal fatigue failures in major components (e.g. engine blocks, alternator brackets, etc.), not the fasteners. They progress rapidly, and break in just minutes (e.g. 25-100 miles of...

Man, that's brutal. It's crazy how similarly these stories go down... I was right in your shoes several years ago. I know it sucks, but I would check the driveshafts and u-joints again. You shouldn't have mysterious residual issues that just haven't been discovered yet. If you're still...

To be clear, this doesn't usually fail by itself. It usually fails because the rear air compressor bracket comes loose, allowing the vibrations to fatigue the oil line (and sometimes crack the front engine cover housing). In order words, the oil line cracking is the symptom of a different...

Please read the "Common Issues" document here in my signature. It talks about some of these problems (and others).

When I got my truck, the coolant switches that activate the fan were incorrect (and judging by the corrosion patina on them, had been that way for a decade). You may need to look through how it's all wired up. The fan should fail to the on position - it's on by default, and the system turns it...