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Many/most of the trucks still have the old fan. I know you're upset yours broke, but if it was actually as bad a design as you suggest, they would have replaced them all long ago, like the driveshafts.

Have any measurements of that floor drain? My truck didn't have any, and I've been wanting to make some. I think there are a couple different sizes/lengths, too.

Yes, I'm parting out a 3116.

Mule Offroad used the spare tire lift cylinder to raise/lower a deck out of the rear enclosure. I assume you could use the suspension hydraulic line instead, to do something similar. See the video at 4:34, and you can see the hydraulic cylinder repurposed to raise the deck.

Thread locking adhesives are anaerobic curing (cure in the absence of air), and require metals with a certain level of free ions to activate. If you're using stainless screws (and some other types), the same properties that keep it from having enough free ions to rust also keep it from having...

Behold...

None of those are going to be good structural solutions long term. The blocks crack at a critical stress point, where the engine bolts to the transmission bell housing. If you plan to do anything other than driving it to a repair facility, or maybe just parades for the rest of its life, you're...

That's exactly how my block cracked. There are a lot of people parting these out now, and you should be able to find an engine for it. Make sure to get the driveshafts balanced before you put the new engine in.

It looks like the front of the original cab uparmor kits...

To be clear, it's not saying to not use thread sealant (Loctite) or metal bend tabs, it's saying not to use the bolts that come that way, since they want mechanics to stop over/under tightening the bolts and use the new idiot-proof bolts that snap off so they can't screw it up.

I think it's 17-23 ft*lb. Blue Loctite 273.

It's probably easier to do on an M1088, because you have no bed, but it still may not be entirely possible to get it off without dropping the driveshaft. I had to drop the crossmember as well. Even then, the whole thing is still a GIANT PAIN (especially on my M1078 ), and almost every bolt...

Always use liquid/paste thread sealants for pneumatic fittings, because the little shreds of tape will cause malfunctions in pneumatic controls (e.g. the pilot passage on a solenoid is very small, and easily clogged). Tape is only for liquid plumbing systems, but even then once you have the...

I don't. I've been working on putting together a little online store, but that takes time too and time is the thing in shortest supply. I still have to finish up the design for the cab bushing master patterns, but I wanted to get these wire guards done quick before the wires got damaged.

If this is the first one of my posts you've seen, I make a ton of 3D printed stuff for FMTVs... door handles, tachometer pods, inclinometer mounts, seal drivers, hub setup tools, etc. The Army announced several months ago that they will be making a big effort to get 3D printing out to units...

The wiring harness that goes into my doors, for the clearance marker light, had these little curved plastic tubes on them. Well, one door did, the other was gone. And then the other one got broken... uh oh. So I decided to try 3D printing a replacement. The originals are put on the wires...

https://www.thedrive.com/news/34366/south-dakota-has-made-millions-from-out-of-state-car-registrations

It's not likely to break. And the dangers aren't in the 3116 engine, it's in the LMTV driveshafts. There are 100,000's of vehicles on the road with 3116 engines.

This time did you take them to Rocky Mountain Driveline? That's who did mine, and I was really satisfied with their work.

Maybe yours was just routed poorly? Mine makes it through there without getting squished really.