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Looks good
I can't get rid of my generator. I like looking at it. I decided to outfit my Suburban to sleep in it. Little more glass, little more inviting. But I think the M1031 is the best and most versatile truck made. Of course that is opinion because I have one.
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Snuggle right up to the generator for a good nights sleep! For some reason everytime I climb in the back of the service box I find something sharp with the top of my head...
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Clearly someone in the transport department is on an illegal substance. That thing is hilarious! Has anyone ever seen a picture of ISIS? Surely our government thinks GM is the equivalent to Toyota in the combat department.
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Wow that is almost stupid money! Clearly the pricing reflects government contract of fleet replacement when the checkbook doesnt have your name on it.
Call me crazy but if you want a Navistar V8 diesel a Ford or Schoolbus probably has a cheaper option[emoji41]
I guess if you are looking for a...
This is great shape for where I live.
Wire wheel on surface rust. Prime, paint, then apply oil. No rubberized undercoat garbage.
Fender is going to need a welder or panel replacement.
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Here is my take...
Time is money and I would think anyone wants a reliable vehicle to not let them down. After all this is a work or play truck and not like a race car.
So you may be able to narrow this down to a plugged sock or something. Is the pump leaking at all? Realistically if you were...
I forget exactly but the updated plugs are ACG60s I think. They are the same as the factory plug but self limiting which eliminated swelling. They do require crimping a new terminal on the wire as the spade is slightly wider.
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Sounds like they are taking you for a ride.
Bypass the fuel sock. If it still happens you probably just need an IP.
I would think maybe $800 for a reman pump and 4 hours of labor is fair.
$3500 is like more the double what it should be.
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I think the only difference is the plastic washers on the ground connection inside. You can convert what you have.
Or just put your standard alternator in the 12v position and put the isolated ground on the 24v position.
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But what you are saying is I'm trying to engineer a 24v charging system on a truck that is literally 99% 12v by only having one 24v alternator. To me that isn't great engineering. I get why people keep the stock 24v system but the stock system is two 12v systems in series. A lot of redundancy...
Still not sure how they f'd the rotor up. You can rebuild the entire thing with a 10mm socket and a paper clip. Only the bearings require force but even then they are little.
I guess if you want to sure but you say you are doing this for simplicity but still need a DC to DC converter to run...
Sounds like you are trying to create more work for yourself. Should have just fixed the alternator and keep it stock. Granted you had to fix the rotor, not sure how that even happens but you are talking $45 worth of rebuild parts and an afternoon.
Or
Just go 12v and be done. Either way going...
Time is money
If you are far enough in to measure the chain stretch you should be replacing it anyway.
I could understand if this was a V engine with overhead cams but what is a chain for 6.2 like under $150?
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Your truck is 12 and 24 volt so just add accessories off of the first battery.
Or get 24v lights. That will cut the wiring size down in half which is cheaper to run. Plus it will ise both alternators instead of just one.
Either way, secretly your truck is the same as a 12v civilian model...
Bah...if 31's are cooler then 35's is cooler. Basic arithmetic [emoji6]
Both my M1031 and 3/4 ton Suburban have 4" lifts with shackle flips and they ride better then most new 1 tons. I will say the factory steering sucks and lifting it makes it suck worse. My Burb has crossover. Between that...
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