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Yup, time for a new pump. This has been covered many times in CUCVRUS threads, I'd look them up and get a good look at the pump you want and the one that looks like it but doesn't work well. Also, you are going to change the oil right?

It's got to be either coolant or fuel, personally I'd be hoping for the fuel. BTW, the pump is the only place it could be coming from.

Check the alternator output, they have three 'legs' and if one diode burns out you lose 33% of charging and that would cause the light to come on when a load is put on it.

Been there done that many times, not doing it again! I've retired.

Your using a hose to find the leak, start at the bottom and work your way up, You can use duct tape to rule out things like the windshield and door seals ectra.

I've had a small roll around floor jack in my trucks for years and it's been very handy many times over, for me and others I've stopped to help. I also have a small piece of plywood so it doesn't sink in . I I was running a lifted truck I'd toss in a couple of 2"x4" blocks too.

I do something similar, I use old tie down straps from big trucks and trailers, you can find them for free alongside any highway!

I'm with Barrman on this. I don't think this would truly be feasible. By the time you pay for the truck and do all the fluids and tires, hoses and possibly an injector pump, you'd have quite a chunk of $$ into it and then add all the RV stuff and it just dosn't make sense to me. I know trucks...

I think they are all fail open vs fail closed, that would be real bad!

I wonder if a bit of water was in the IP and caused a bit of corrosion in the pump where the shut off solenoid is and making it stick, come to think about it I saw where you said you had power to the pick wire, but did the hear a click while unhooking /hooking it up? Check for the click and then...

If you have access to a radiator thermometer just drop it in the filler neck and see what the actual temp is. Or if your not old school like me and have an inferred thermometer use that. Those engines take a long time to warm up at low idle and the colder it gets the worse it gets. I use a...

Nope, it can be done with the mani in place. It's not easy , you will need some crows foot wrenches (i don't remember size) and some 3/8 drive extensions a 3/8 drive ratchet and some patience. Remove the air cleaner and using the extensions, go in from the back, you can't get much of a turn at a...

This where a set of crow foot wrenches come in handy for the lower lines. (it probably is a lower one :) )

Yeah , unless the engine is real high milage there's no real need to replace the chain and if thats the case then it needs a complete rebuild.

Barman's right, if those self-adjusters are screwed in all the way ( like when you assemble the brakes) then they will not contact the brake drum and will not adjust. All that will result in the brake pedal going almost to the floor. The adjusters should be screwed out until the drum lightly...

I changed one HB when rebuilding the engine, that engine was the smoothest idling 6.2 ever, but it also had a big HEAVY flywheel and pressure plate on the other end. With that in mind I did not change the HB in my latest truck.

I wonder what would happen in that case? Things would get chewed up for sure, but do you think the broken pieces could jam up enough to crack the bell housing? Inquiring minds want to know.

I hope he has it fixed by now, it's been 4 years or so!

I'd also take a hard look at the thermostat, if it gets stuck closed it will overheat really quick. Another problem area is the lower rad hose, running down the X-way at high RPM's will cause a slight vacuum in the lower hose and unless it has a spring in it or reinforcing ribs it can get...

Nice looking truck! Hard to diagnose from here but I'm willing to bet you have multiple bad connections. I'd start with the heater blowing fuses, and I'd start by checking the connection on the heater controls itself. The switch is a known problem area and available at most auto parts stores...