Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.
I think you have your answer but just don't believe it. The signs do NOT point to a head gasket.
I've seen healthy engines with bubbles in the rad= no problems.
Coolant expands when it gets hot, a full system will push coolant into the over flow tank and out of the tank if over full.
How do you...
I'm assembling everything on the engine stand mostly to see how it all goes together. Where do most people tap into the oil system for the turbo supply? From what I can see online with a 6.5 it looks like it comes from the front of the block on the right hand side? I'm looking at running a line...
Well, I dropped the IP and injectors off to have them gone thru and looking at the truck I realized I'm going to need a different exhaust system! Pity, the dual set on it now is like new ;( . Any suggestions? I haven't measured it yet but the down pipe looks to be about 3" ,if so should I run 3"...
Back in the old days (kinda like this thread LOL) we would use any old condenser from when we changed the points and attach it to the alternator to kill the whine, IIRC sometimes to the radio itself. All the condenser does is 'leak' a little bit of power to ground and thus kills the whine, how I...
I had the same truck (without GV over drive ) and put a 700 R4 in so ended up about the same final ratio.
235/85/r16 tires are about 31.5" tall when new I needed new tire and went with what I believe was a 305 or 33" tire and never looked back. I didn't have a tach in that truck so no idea of...
I'd do a test like AC said and or use a known good pump to supply the IP. If that works you know the problem is in the tank/lines/filter or the electric pump. Just a quick thought here, are you sure the electric pump is facing the correct way? Sounds stupid but ya never know, always check the...
Nows a hellve a time for me to think of it but, (don't ya just love that?) I reviewed this and wondered if you could gain the room needed by ditching the mechanical fan and clutch and going with an electric unit, that would give you quite a bit of room to move the engine forward several inches...
I've never changed one over but I don't see it being hard, One alternator and two batteries hooked in series and a few other things. Use the pink wire to the IP and move it to the distributor. Other that changing the starter I think even those wires can stay. Do away with the GP wires and I...
And I'd like to add, no one likes to cross thread stuff and cross threading the fuel line is a real PIA. So instead of just hoping you have it lined up and going to town with it try holding it in place and turning it backwards, YES backwards counterclockwise at least one full turn, do that...
I think you might get away with what you have by extending the arm that goes to the hinge. Basically move everything to the left so the hinge is mounted at the 2 bumper bolts, that way you have the bumper reinforcement bracket to help and can 'beef' that up some.
Failing that, an A frame mount...
Ouch! If it were mine and I wasn't going to convert it back to stock, then yes I'd opt for the 60s. I believe you will need to change the wire ends that clip to the GP's themselves, wait and check as it may already have been done.
What lights are the 4 switches for? I hope not headlights!
Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!