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The next step will be to confirm that the Pump Plunger "cup seal" is actually sealing. (I have seen new rebuild kits that had cup seals that didn't function properly) The seal should be a firm to snug fit in the bore, remembering that vacuum will need to be able to pull this plunger / seal...

I have held up a mirror to see the bowl vent while actuating the starter under the hood. Be careful doing this because the battery terminals are right there. Bert

You will first want to determine which transmission you have. Early or late model. There are significant differences in the late model transmission, that cured problems that naturally occurred in the early model. The one you mentioned about it slipping out of gear was common in the early...

Was the gas flooding from the bowl vent or internally in the throat of the carburetor? Did you disconnect the electric fuel pump during this test as I recommended in post #26? Bert

The fuel pump is actuated off a lobe on the camshaft with no push rod. Should be fine but you may want to put a shop rag into the opening to reduce oil splash from the hole. A word of caution about running the engine for more than a few seconds if gas has thinned the engine oil. Bert

Website? Bert

I went back and looked at all of your pictures. Was the Crankcase vent tube removed before the flooding started or after? I see that you mentioned leaving it off since it keeps flooding. Since you have tried two carburetors with the same flooding issue it would lead me to believe its not the...

I would check the base gasket. Here is a picture of the correct gasket from the G741 site (2nd from the left is the correct one). Bert

At least that's how you are explaining it to the wife, right. :twisted: Bert

Raising the compression ratio will have a direct effect on the engine dynamics. First by increasing the stress applied to all of the reciprocating weight parts (pistons, rods, wrist pins). Since you already know about rotational balance I'll skip the crankshaft details. I have to ask you if...

A word of caution on just milling the head for higher compression. If this is done on an older rebuild of unknown origin and you are not sure if the engine has been Gram Balanced, you run a much higher risk of ventilating the block. 2cents Bert

Welcome from Wisconsin, Please make sure to check out the G741.Org site for more M37 information. Please make sure to log your M37 into the registry also. http://www.g741.org/PHPBB/ucp.php?mode=login I look forward to seeing more pictures of the M37. Bert

Nice bit of fab work on the bushings. Side note: the chow on the griddle in the MKT picture has made me hungry and its only 0740.......... Bert

Saw this was also advertised in the recent Military Vehicles Magazine. Bert

Are you planning on attaching ducting to the heater since it is in the cabinet now? Bert

Honestly you could have the head removed and take a look at the valves in under one hour. No need to mess with the timing chain cover at this point. Bert

That is a great looking lineup of vehicles in attendance. Thanks for sharing the pictures. Bert

A turtle way out there............[thumbzup] Bert

I have to agree with ROLLER, the compression is way too low. I have seen valves sticking before and resulting in not fully closing / seating. This will cause both the misfire and low compression. Time to pull the head and check it out. Bert

Great pictures and videos, thanks for sharing. Bert