Search results

LOL thanks! I had to disassemble everything when my starter decided to short out and take out most everything on that side of the engine...so when I put it back together with the heat shield & wrap I finally finished painting everything too. And I sealed up the windshield to minimize the rain...

It's just a silicone adapter: 3" to 4". I got it from my local Parker distributor (All-Hose). HTH.

Yes. Finally got some pics of my 4-inch snorkel & air intake setup, as well as my 5-inch exhaust with Donaldson M100465 muffler. I cut the exhaust elbow about 3-inches from the turbo end and welded on a 3.5" to 5" adapter. I used Donaldson exhaust clamp bands from that point on to secure...

You're right, I'm wrong...I was thinking of the grease outside the spindle.

I should clarify that for the U-joint style axle shafts, less grease seems to work better. It seems that too much grease near the boot, when steering, results in the grease being forced out via tearing the boot; as the steering knuckle turns, it compresses the grease through the boot, if there...

Nice score Ron!

Make sure you start by letting the oil supply settle for the water to separate, and have a way to drain off water & sludge from bottom. When the filter bags start getting full, you'll need to lift them out and squeeze the residual oil out through an un-clogged portion, so have LOTS of nitrile...

Ron, you are correct. However it's been my experience that filling from one side to another overloads the knuckle with grease, and I've blown out several boots that way...I don't go through water much so I add grease via the zerks on top & bottom (through the kingpins), just a few squeezes...

Pump the grease through the zerk fittings to push out the old grease from the kingpin bushings; the plugs are opened so you don't blow out the boot.

True, but where there's a will there's a way. I've gone a lot farther in 2wd trucks than anyone ever thought possible simply by adding weight to the rear and picking proper lines off-road. 50-lb water softener salt bags are durable for short trips and cheap enough to justify buying several...

More weight in the rear & air down.

If that doesn't work out with Travis, you can use Susanville Towing: (530) 257-5114. I've used them several times and am very happy with their service & storage (no charge for storage, can have transportation company pick up at their yard & have forklift available).

Thank you! The passenger side will receive this treatment, much easier than trying to make a bracket around the low-slung mirror on that side (it works best for me that way).

They're well worth it for the price he's asking...you could always sell the unused seat from the pair and recover most of your cash. I'm measuring up my own battery box now so I can install the other seat where the batteries currently are.

Nice looking truck, good job with the mudflap brackets!

Thanks! Yes, the limiting rod is there, but allows the door to extend into my mirrors, just like on my Deuce. The limiting snubber I added does just the trick for me.

I got tired of continually having to reposition my mirrors every time I opened the driver's door too far...where the mirrors are is perfect for me while driving, so I made a little bumper out of a leftover bracket and cut-down exhaust hanger rubber isolator. I cut the rubber isolator in half...

NICE! [thumbzup]

Found a pair of NEW air-ride seats for M915A4 trucks in Phoenix, AZ, that a guy was selling...he originally bought them out of OK City from GL for his Deuce, but ended up selling his Deuce and kept the seats. The price was worth the all-day drive down there, only spent $150 in fuel. They were...

Thank you sir!