Search results

Yeah as a last resort. I am not saying the listed price is not fair, but, it's a lot, and the valves themselves and stuff are cheap brand new - 40 - 60 bucks each. So I can rebuild the whole thing for less and have brand-new parts. Reliability is very important to me, I take the truck to really...

There were two A0 panels; one was made of Parker and the other was made of SPX. I don't know if the orifices for the cartridges are the same but since they bothered to make two manifolds I doubt they are. Mine is parker. I am working with http://mfcpinc.com

Yeah that was my thinking. The tab is broken off on the handle so there's also going to be some JB Weld involved. It's on the TODO list... got to get my cab back down first! Waiting on Parker to cross-reference the hydro valves to something that exists in the modern world.

Trade you a lock rod for an outside door handle rod... ha ha. One I can live with more than the other.

Mine hisses a little when I first turn off the truck and get out but stops shortly. The truck otherwise reasonably holds air (low by morning). So I am not sure how unusual that noise is - it may be that when you get out of the cab it is running the leveler gauge and letting out air or whatever...

Ordinarily I'd help you out but my truck is deadlined right now waiting on parts. That said - go down and look at the trucks before you bid. I saw them, they are sitting in the lakewood lot.

Is that a mayo jar?

Never heard of this being done. I think you'd be better off just to CARC it again. The old CARC can be used as the base, you just have to clean it properly.

My TM -24P is showing Parker. CAGE 09990. In any event I plan to take the entire mess out to our industrial hydro place tomorrow and dump it on their counter, they can sort it out. Edit- I see what is going on. There are two hydro manifold assemblies for the LMTV. They are handled separately...

You sure? My check valves say Parker right on them, and it's a Parker-style part number in the TM.

There are details and pics over on the other thread, http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?155350-Coolant-Took-A-Vacation but basically I took my manifold apart and the checkvalves had some minor looking rust and a rough feel to them.

So here we go. Of my 3x 2-way valves, one of them didn't have a good detent. The one for the crane. I think this was also the valve that was leaking, so that will need to be replaced. The other 2-way valves have good solid clicks and turn smoothly so I think they just need the rebuild kits if at...

OK so keeping in mind I had the cab lines disconnected entirely for safety, the crane was still extended and wouldn't go back in. If I selected the cab functions, it would pump hydro out the disconnected port in the back, and was properly choosing the right port for raise/lower. Which still...

Sorry - I took it to mean he had a functional (block) schematic of the system. Like what valves are connected to what in what order, and where the check valves are, etc. Not the physical layout.

I have this same problem on all my circuits, leading me to believe it's something in the manifold. Cab is stuck up right now. I've got the manifold off and I'm basically at the point of rebuilding it, I had leaky valves anyways. Did you ever get into your manifold and learn more about the...

And the answer is no - no you can't. You have to undo all the fittings to get it out.

I know this thread is old, but, it is 2016 and highway cables still seem rare. Rare enough that I may just make my own since I am already equipped to terminate mil-spec connectors. I wanted to share that the jacks & plugs on the VIC-3 (and, as far as I know, the VIC-5) seem to be MIL-DTL-26482...

IMO the medium tow bar is the "right" size. When split in half the medium is 2-man lift unless the person is incredibly fit. The TM for the medium is 9-4910-593-12 and it is rated there through 39K lbs. I am of course referring to the oldschool metal ones, not the newer Ibis Tek models which...

There are a few limitations of most intercom systems you may want to consider. The first is they are basically all mono - at least I've never seen a stereo system - so the quality of the music will be limited. The other is that they basically all half-duplex and typically push-to-talk. This...

update: so according to the documentation I have, pin S is the blackout input. It should be at battery voltage for lights, or grounded out for no lights. I haven't checked mine yet, I have other complications, tennmogger maybe you want to look at yours.