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Huh. I'm still rocking my original starter at over 15k miles and no signs of issues. I did pick up a spare new one when one popped up cheap off a surplus crate engine but haven't needed it.

Interesting - could definitely be a bad replacement I suppose. I would open it up and inspect. I guess that begs the question - why was it replaced the first time and now the truck is on solenoid #3. Don't hear about many issues with the factory unit.

Not necessarily. And probably not likely given someone obviously already encountered this problem and didn't solve it with a new one. It could be getting insufficient current across the coil to pull it in hard and fast and make a solid connection between the high current contacts. Contactor...

The auxiliary solenoid is a Prestolite SBC-4401E-1 NSN 2920-01-361-5802 https://www.ametekswitch.com/products/solenoids-list/plastic-case-solenoid-sbc I would clean and inspect ALL your starter, solenoid, and auxiliary solenoid connections before straight up replacing the unit. There's one...

That's usually because the latches aren't aligned correctly. From experience with my truck, this is a huge issue with the A1R specifically because the design of the cab latch mounting bracket (no cab air suspension) is..... terrible is the only way I can describe it. I had to manufacture two...

So I'm about 99% sure that plug you are holding is the same one that was on my harness and is designed to connect directly to the trinary switch that Tom includes with his kits: https://www.lmtvtrucks.com/AC/index.html That switch is a weird unit and I didn't use it either - I elected to use a...

Fortunately you can't screw anything up easily. The black wires on the trinary switch are the high/low pressure cut out switch for the compressor, and the blue wires are the AC condenser fan switch wires. That's standard convention for trinary switch wire colors in the AC world. The truck side...

You could always add these to the door: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-M736XKADCCSEN-Hidden-Shackle/dp/B002DY7DRY/ref=pd_lpo_sccl_2/143-0983280-3562869?th=1

So pull out a door handle and have a key made for it. I did this like the first week I owned the truck after getting it home. I agree 100% that you need to have a key to secure the door against "honest" (Unprepared and Unsophisticated would be a better description than Honest) people. But I...

Here's a good video from Locklab showing a similar "quality" of RV lock and how easy it is to get the lock open. These types of locks are honestly an absolute joke and anyone with a wave rake can be through them in seconds: Despite what MWM charges for them, these are $90 door handles (what...

Mine are 1022

There actually are NOT that many of these keys floating around. These trucks were not actually equipped with that style of cylinder from the factory and at the unit level the door keys are typically tossed in the trash. It's only the updated handles that used that key so the handles would have...

Why rekey them? These doors are easy to slim-jim. I don't see the point. If someone comes prepared with that style of FMTV key then it not working isn't likely to stop them. Anyone that familiar with these trucks and intent on gaining access to your truck isn't going to be stopped by changing a...

Not that hard - you just remove the whole handle. It's 2 bolts and some linkage once you get the door panel off. Can be a little tricky with the linkage clips but many have come before you and managed it so.......

It's easy. You just remove the inner window sweep and the weatherstripping in the glass channel and along the top edge and the window slides out to the inside edge of the channel.

Yes my rubbers are intact. :ROFLMAO:

I kinda figured those might be looking at the exploded diagram. Still irrelevant but yeah that's what I was thinking - not in the hubs but in the spindles.

Not sure exactly where the yellow metal is to be found in the front hubs but regardless the whole "yellow metal safe" discussion is largely irrelevant as nearly all modern GL4/GL5 dual-spec lubricants are safe in that way. Amsoil for example: https://www.amsoil.com/t/faq/ Scroll down to Gear...

Dog-house for a HMMWV is my guess.

Dow Corning Molykote 111 is as good or better. NYK77 is just Truck Lite branded dielectric grease. Dow 111 is used extensively in the aviation world for this and for o-ring lube. The four chems I keep on my truck tool box - loctite 545 (thread sealant), loctite 248 (blue threadlocker in...