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Figured my existing thread was the best place to post these new pics. Took off the old bumper and put on the new bumper in anticipation of the coming winch. Yes I know I'll have to take a lot of this apart again to get the winch in. But with brand-new bolts it'll be a snap.

Huh, I had assumed it was for a convoy light. My truck has one, too (not a gun truck).

Update: here is a pic of primed parts after wet-sanding with #400 sandpaper. Used Duplicolor self-etching primer.

Reinstalling the snapring on the output shaft is kicking my butt. Can I cheat and use one like this instead? | SmallParts.com OK nevermind again I finally got it on. Forget the pliers: put the shaft standing straight up in a vice and set the snapring on top. Put flat-head screwdrivers into...

White Owl does have the retainer cups and they are slightly less expensive than the seals.

I wonder if the seals could be converted into the needed cups. Might be something to try. I'll answer my own question: yes it can (I had a spare around).

I fired an e-mail to George at White Owl to see if he has them. If anyone has other ideas let me know. G, is there an "official name" for those cups?

Oh dear. So there's a metal cup that holds the boot in? I don't think I saved those. In fact I don't remember seeing them...I did take the old seals out but that's the only piece I recall taking out of those holes. I think both boots were gone off this PTO when I started.

OK next issue: the TM says that after this seal is in, then press in the boot. Does the lip of the boot go all the way through and inside the seal? I don't see any other way, but then with the boot inside the seal, the shaft really isn't against the seal at all--it's against the boot. Is there...

Thank you I understand on the open-style seals but still wondering about the closed ones. I do have a couple in my winch bodies I think. I'll look at those over the weekend but any further description appreciated.

OK I got the little crack in the housing welded up and I'm ready to start re-assembling this thing. One thing I wish I had done differently: I removed the oil seals when I tore it down and it's been a couple months. I'm not sure which way they were turned. Is there a rule-of-thumb to follow...

As requested. The first pic is still not quite done, but very close. Pics 2-4 show a process. The last pic is after 2 sessions of stripper and thoroughly rinsed.

Right--I'm working on 40-year-old winch bodies that are already dinged up, scratched, etc. Plus they had 2-4 different colors (layers) of paint showing. They will look a lot better when I'm done, I feel confident, and no worse for wear. (obviously I have no reason to scrape on sensitive areas...

I've been scraping with a putty knife and following up with a wire brush by hand, not seeing any ill effects so far. And I already used a wire brush in a drill on the other end before I tried the stripper. The parts I'm working on aren't exactly free of marks to begin with.

Right. I was planning on using a self-etching primer from NAPA. We've used it often on aluminum-based vent pipe flashings in our roofing installations. The Dupli-color green cap stuff has worked best.

I'm having good luck with paint stripper from Lowes. It's a slow process: apply, wait, scrape, wire-brush. But it's doing the job.

Wow, that's new. I drove a deuce out of Knox in November or so.

Chances are they have been re-painted that color, would be my guess. Mine is about to be.

I did pick that up today (pictured above). The little angle brace in the corner is ate through with rust but that can be replaced pretty easy. But for now this thing is the bottom of my list, after winch rebuilding and painting the whole truck, so it's going to sit in a corner for months.

Quick question: under my avatar it says I have 8 reviews, but if you view my feedback I have 10. Glitch? Or does it time out after a while and just show more recent deals under the avatar? AHA! I see the 10 reviews came from 8 buyers, maybe that's it.