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Early engines had plastic or whatever it was made of but that didn't last long, maybe 6 mos to a year into production. Easy to look at, 2 bolts. Usually if no coolant is pushing out the overflow, not overheating. So if the gauge says 230 and no coolant leaving the radiator, fan not on, not...

Looks like a Freightliner radiator. Was it pushing coolant out of the overflow? What temp did it get to? Gauges are known to be incorrect.

Smoke yet?

Check the ground to the tank

Check the fuse on top of the in tank pump, that might be why it doesn't work. Also, there is a rubber hose between the pick up and in tank pump that likes to deteriorate. Makes it so when there is 1/2 tank, it will die or do just what you are experiencing.

Any progress?

Yes, the pistons are the same. Rings are the same, but you shouldn't re use rings. I won't say it can't be done, because I have done it to get stuff up and running to finish jobs out in a dirt field or on an oil platform, but 90% of the time if reused, it turns into an oil pump/blow-by queen...

Why do Fords sound like something you would see in a diaper? NOT smooth at all, worse after they are "chipped or tuned".

I think they go in the head or block to locate he gasket...keeps it in place. Most likely the block, it would be hard to keep the gasket on the head while installing it ;)

Yes, a very yellow, smoky flame, but not when there is running engine air flow, I think propane, like someone said above would work well.

I have one of those cannons, need to find a regulator for it!

If you checked pressures and they are where they need to be, I would pull the injectors and have them tested or just get another set. That what I would suggest if all the testing was done. If you have checked pressures, isolated the engine from the chassis, chances are injectors are messed up...

Diesel is WAY different than gas. It won't light like that. Now if you were to install a gas tank, pump and something to atomize the gas at the tailpipe and have a spark plug, you might get flames. But a blown exhaust velocity is a bit different than a carbureted engine exhaust velocity.

Use a volt meter so you get it right. 24 volts melts things! Put it on ohms, go from the block or chassis to one of the cables, it should have a good contact, <10 ohms resistance. That goes to the ground stud...the one on the starter motor. The other side should have an open circuit, WAY >10...

It the original p/n crossed to the p/n of the 3 ring, you should be fine. When those parts are crossed, there is a related service parts topic referenced. That SPT will tell you if you can intermix the new and old pistons, it is a weight thing. Go back to where you got your parts and ask them to...

A heel bar works to pull them. https://www.amazon.com/Pcs-Heel-Pry-Bar-Set/dp/B000RGPYNA

And remove the return line and drop it into a bucket, If the return line is plugged solid or kinked, the engine might not need to idle before the idle comes up, the line will be full and easily pressurized at start up to make the idle high. Do this before removing the pump. With a line into a...

Push tube....big one between the cam follower and injector lever or the link from the lever into the injector? Links are the same between SC and BC, PT is different between SC and BC, IIRC SC was a tad longer.

Well, there ya have it. OP needs to look at the 350 and give at least CPL to Wes.

No, that's wrong. Set to 6 in lb and lock it down. No 15 extra degrees, no bottom the plunger. Set it at 6 in lb and run it. Injector on 3, valves on 5 when at A on the pulley. I V A 3 5 B 6 3 C 2 6 A 4 2 B 1 4 C 5 1