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I can't tell, rust or algae? Whatever, if the injectors are like that, there is a very good possibility that the pump internals are too. When you put a new FF in it, what did it look like?

Not usually, unless there is a restriction that is intermittent, like something sucking up on the pick up. Same with overflow valve. That's why I said if you have checked everything....the stuff in a prior post.... 98% of the time it is one of two, pump or injectors. IF this came into the shop...

P and MW are different animals, give me the number on the pump and i'll see if the parts are interchangeable. It is not uncommon to have an intermittant issue inside the pump. If you have checked all of the pressures, FSOV, restriction, air in fuel and throttle travel, wastegate and plumbing...

Crimp off the return line and see if it tries to start. It is a possibility that the screens on the injectors are plugged from sitting.

Eliminate the truck fuel system. Put a line into a bucket of clean fuel directly to the pump and see what happens. Do you remember how many clicks you turned the screw? Is put it back. Also, it takes a bit to get all of the air out of the pump after the housing is drained, so, I guess you could...

You can use a compressor like this. I have one if you would like to try it. https://www.lislecorp.com/specialty-tools/valve-spring-compressor

Diesel isn't volatile until atomized, even an open/shorted wire in the fuel causes no issued, the liquid will not let it burn. The other question, how far/long do you really drive it? Towing with the '85 I was good for 400 miles = or -, depending on hills.

My 85 1ton gasser had dual tanks, I don't see why someone couldn't add the factory stuff....from aftermarket like LMC...and have both tanks. For a mod I did to mine, since I towed with it, is I made a T from copper plumbing, IIRC it was 1 1/4 inch, that let me fill both tanks from either side...

Good you get to work! Keep us posted.

Just for S&G, take the return hose off of the steel line on the engine and see what happens. It WILL make a mess, if you can put a hose over/on the fitting and drop it into a container, it will make your life a little less messy. If you don't know where it is, post a full size pic and I will...

Could be a return fuel restriction. Usually that will cause the idle to creep as it warms up.

What did you tighten before the issue started? Loosen them and see what happens

Do easy things first. When the idle flow is set on the stand is is 99.9% right where it should be, I would not adjust it,it does take a special tool to do it. Take the throttle linkage off of the pump....not the lever on the pump, the rod and heim joint off of the lever....and see if that fixes...

You can do the spring without pulling the head. Put the piston at TDC compression and replace the spring.

I might have lied. Thinking about it, I do remember ReCon doing something like that a very long time ago.

Never SEEN that before, but I think I heard of a place called Heads Excellsweld, a VERY long time ago, doing that. If it was running with that, F- it, run it again. Again, gotta mention pitting, I6 don't look good, but see above post.

Again, HEADS have nothing on them. They are flat. IF there is a mark that you can feel, the head is in need of exchange/machining. The pic above indicates water in the combustion chamber. See the little pits that go up to the seats? If they were just pocked around the face and not at the seats...

That could be an issue too, easy to tell if it aint working. Again, SIMPLE things first BEFORE you start tearing into the engine.

@Floridianson, you no likie meat loaf??!! I have never seen that in your sig until now!

Why not start with easy stuff, he said black smoke, yup, could be an injector, but, if it were mine, black smoke, no power, i'd be looking at intake issues. If it has a paper filter or a critter got in the clean side, coulda sucked the nest or paper into the turbo. Easy to pull a filter housing...