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2020 though...... as in.... would that not be the C7 engine and not the previous engines? anyway...... all the previous part numbers in this thread are for 16lb caps anyway

wow that line lays in nicely.

catch 22 is....... the strongest pull is when most all that line is belayed out... sorta seems then that the trick might be to find that magic balance of keeping not too much on the spool so you get down to recommended final raps on winch pretty easy/yet enough to move you out of the muck or...

yup..... there was a time when take out MRAP 3rds; already with the higher ratio R&P, were not that expensive and even with shipping it was cheaper to swap in a whole MRAP takeout...... even when calculating labor. But that is not the case anymore. R&P swap is way to go now.

that might be a good place to install a generic duck bill drain. Put it on your personal maintenance schedule to open its mouth to drain/check for break down of rubber. THis way you dont have to worry about forgetting to swap plug it when you end up deeper than you expected.

I seem to recall that as part of fording procedure too.

why didn't they just plumb that up with a hose up high to area between cab and bed/box??

how did you decide a 16lb cap was the proper poundage? have seen others say their cap was 14lb... but they upgraded to 15 for to accommodate drive to AZ wonder if they were adjusted up and down to accomidate where they truck would be mostly (Alaska, or Kuwait)

straight edge to lay across the machined surface, a dial indicator depth gauge, a calculator. pretty much all you need.

Thank YOU for the FUBARing for the rest of us... so we don't lol. :papabear: Oh wait... :3dAngus: I take that back..... dang you ...... NOW we have No EXCUSES... we've been warned.... and provided with reality example. grrr :hammer:

yup like others said.... Allison sorta screwed up and gave numbers to things that dont fit conventional thinking. Think of it more this way.: allison is a 6speed trans with an additional granny gear. Like usual trucks with Granny Gear's HAVE TO BE MANUALLY accessed. For the FMTV line of...

that is what I was thinking... like it cracked at the casting mark. you can also see at least one of the cracks radiating out inwardly of the circle though in which he mentioned.

thats crazy...... Maybe fore you go much further put a "run out gauge" (think that is proper term/tool) on the block and dial it to your crank end. slowly turn it and see if it turns w/out micro wobble? Or maybe just to check if the end of the crank is not milled funky.... that is such a...

Next couple of people who replaces the keypad...... please post videos and/or write ups. Sooooo many will be appreciative.

Power Distribution Panel Main feeds (x1, x2) screw/bolts Hardware store X1-24v &X2-12v 5/16th 18 Power Distribution Panel Main feed X3 screw/bolt Hardware store X3-grnd 1/4 20 from the parts spread sheet

so was the whole green panel portion suppose to come out along with the keypad? how did you end up getting the rest out? Curious; in part, cause myself and others have a new keypad to put in.. and don't want to run into same issue.

pics of the issue would be appreciated.

ahhh... ok.. deeper back than have been thus far. does a bolt go thru it... or is it a rubber plug-ish thing that gets compressed into place via other bolts holding that housing in place on the truck orr?

????? what year truck.. what rubber? for the life of me can't recall any rubber last time pulled a headlight.

also quoting someone's post is more liable to get their attention. or better yet in this cause just use @ before their name and it will bring up a box to select a member and do this @RandomThinker / @Plasa