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The U shaped piece is just called a steering arm. This will help you figure out what everything else is called. https://www.lmctruck.com/1973-91-chevy-gmc/csb-1973-91-steering-controls-4-wheel-drive

I'm pretty much replacing everything he mentioned. I also plan on doing u joints in the front axle as well as axle seals down the road. I'm putting most of my time and money into steering, braking, and handling. After all that I'll slap 100 bucks worth of Rapco 383 on it and call it good.

Should just be ball joints. I'm going to be replacing mine soon as well along with the tie rod, tie rod ends, tie rod adjusting sleeve, and drag link components. All of that is worn out on mine though. I'm pretty sure it's all factory original still.

Not sure why that other one is trying to price gouge. Dash or dot they are both the same thing. I purchased the first one that you have there for $23

I got it from Amazon. That is the correct number and you will only need one. One kit does both sides as well as the attachment points on the frame. It's like 26 bucks if I recall. You will need a 1-1/8 shallow impact socket. The driver side bolt is pretty easy to get to. The passenger side I...

I'm not Rick but this is what he is talking about. That bar that attaches there and on the other side in the same location is your sway bar. This is the bushing kit you would buy to replace them.

I'm surprised they didn't include dust boots. May be personal preference but I don't like the shock ram exposed.

Cut the rust out around the golf ball sized hole and got a patch welded in. That's all the rust holes that I know of patched so now I just have to body fill over the patch areas and sand smooth. I'm not really worried about dents and dings but I am fixing rust and holes to prevent further...

Very nice looking factory fresh

Being on call makes it hard to get to deep into working on anything. I did however get a new blower motor and cage installed which completes the heating. Even though it doesn't get below 20 in middle Alabama much these days that heat is still nice to have below 40 degrees Fahrenheit that's 4.4...

New sway bar bushing kit finally came in. First one got damaged in shipping so they had to send another. Also got the brake lines bled out with fresh dot5. Took the day off work today to sleep after being out on call outs all night. After getting up at 11 I felt like I had to accomplish...

That looks like the same ones Bilstein has listed as being for a 2-4 inch lift. There is also one person in the Q&A section who suggested they would not have much up travel on a 4 inch lift.

My next suggestion would have been Rancho but I don't think they make a 6 inch either. This is why I don't like lifts. Just get a name brand shock, preferably with a warranty.

Just searched the Bilstein site. It doesn't look like the make a 6" lift shock for an 84 k5 blazer.

No the glow plug and water in fuel light are separate from the cluster harness. Everything on that cluster photo gets signal from one large plug. You are welcome. I was new to this at one point as well. Glad I could help.

OK if you look back at the photo posted previously of the back of your instrument cluster. At the bottom right of the photo you will see Gen 1 and Gen 2. These are where the bulb holders go. The signal for them is carried through the printed circuit board from the main plug where all the traces...

As I stated the Gen lights are in the same harness that plugs into the back of the instrument cluster. You said your cluster harness was intact. You stated you can not find any cut wires so what leads you to believe your wires for you're Gen lights are missing?

This is a photo of what each socket on the pcb/cluster is for. Borrowed from the thread below. It's a good read. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/cucv-instrument-cluster-decoded.46054/

Cucv fuse box layout. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/cucv-fuse-box-layout.132309/

OK and looking back at your photos it looks like from what I can see of one Alternator that the wires all look to be in there. You could just have blown bulbs, fuse, or a bad pcb on the back of the cluster. Also see if any of your fusible links are bulged out or broken. Any of these things can...