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IIRC you can reach the core support bolts by removeing the grill and looking in a slotted hole thats about 2"x 4, I don't remember having to remove the rad. Be careful, jack it up and the toss a block in there the last thing you want is to have the body come down on your hand and your all by...

Thank you for explaining it much better than I could.

16.5 wheels are getting hard to find and dually 16.5s ... I haven't seen any of those in years. A lot of that old stuff has been crushed and melted back when scrap price was so high. Good luck, it does have a nice look.

I've removed a lot of truck caps and never had them weigh anywhere near 300lbs. But I do like the idea but instead of one D ring in the center and haveing it swing and twist around while mounting/dismounting. I'd use four of them mounted on the sides, less water leaks and you could use them as...

I did the same thing with the splitter, keep in mind the shifter hole has to be moved back 8" and that it hits the stock seat. I heated and bent my shifter a bit ( it helped but not much) it still pops out of reverse sometimes unless I hold it. A seat change may be in my future. That's about all...

I've used china starters before and none of them hold up like the OEM or remaned OEM starters do. I've got one 24v hi-tork china made with about a dozen starts on it and the silver solder holding the conduter wire from solinnoid to the motor itself melted, easy fix if your at home when it happens!!

I think that is called "coil over" and was a common way to increase load capacity or fide height. I've seen them available but $$$, you have the springs just replace the shocks.

What ever you do, do NOT get a used one that"worked fine when I took it off"! Go the few bucks more and get a new one, my son cheaped out and got burned and then I gave him one I had kicking around and it leaked too. ( at least I didn't charge him :) )

No not one truck, I run 145,000 miles a year and have been doing that for 11 or 12 years, before that I was over the road and miles varied. I keep a truck for about 400,000 miles and never that's NEVER had an IP or injector problem. This has been discussed over and over again in the trucking...

I've never understood the "need" to add aditives for lubricity, I've run over 2 million miles and never had an IP problem. Gelling? yes a couple time and I normally add anti gel when the truck is going to be parked for a couple days in the winter or when it drops below 0*. A few months ago I...

Pics would help, I don't know what blue box your talking about.

For bolts broken by overtightening I've had good luck with useing a sharp center punch and a hammer, place punch near threads and tap at an angle in a counter clock wise direction. I've also had good luck useing a LEFT hand drill bit, it will usaully grab the bolt and unscrew it.

WOW a 292, I haven't seen one of those in years. Looking good but a lot more work than I want to get into now a days!

My 1008 runs like a raped ape too. I know if I was raped I might want to run fast but doubt I could! I'd probably run like and old heavy under powered M1008!

Did you DIY or have to send it out to a shop?

Umm, fuel pump not maintaining pressure? Fuel filter plugged, fuel line crushed? Any or all would cause it to run fine for a bit then on long pulls lose power.

I too am ASC certified and ICAR trained, I spent over 20 years in collision shops and I have never seen a oil cooler leak into the rad UNLESS it was damaged in an accident. So we can put that to rest, now if you want to separate them for cooling purposes then that's a different story! You lose...

Hi all, so I have an anti-freeze leak due to a crack in my radiator Not going to work well or last, get a replacement or soldered up.

Years back we had to paint all the tracks and wheeled vehichles in the moter pool, we did it in a round robin. Station one was the wash rack, two they got a grease put on all lenses, three got OD green, ectra. In some cases the drivers never got out! All was done in no time and with good...