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Are the bleeder screws from the airpack and the wheel cylinders the same size / spec? If so I have a couple extras. I put new wheel cylinders on the front and saved the old ones, so those are sitting in the garage. I will look for a 7/16" brake bleeder wrench before trying again. Seems like a...

OK, wow, first attempt at bleeding was another humbling experience. This is supposed to be easy with a pressure bleeder, huh? Here are the 2 main issues I'm having: 1. What kind of wrench works well on the bleeder screws? I tried an open-end, box-end, and line wrench and all had trouble...

No, but I also don't reach behind my head for that switch while driving in the dark.

I've got the pressure bleeder assembled now and I'll share a couple things I learned: 1. Get the longer 1/8" nipple to come out of the MC cap, not the shorter one. You want it sticking up through the floor of the cab when it's screwed down. 2. End your hose and top your cap stem with...

Figured I might as well start a thread since I now have at least three pics to include...but they are a almost 2 years apart! I brought her home right around Christmas of 2009. The bumper and grill priming was done in June 2010. And the most recent one with the new fender on and side-panel...

Ok this may be a dumb question but here goes: I've got everything back together and all I need to do is bleed the brakes...BUT When you turn the passenger hub forward, the driver side one turns backward and vice-versa. Have I done something horribly wrong? Edit: OK me and Soldier B turned...

Just call and make an appointment. I have previewed at Knox a couple times, they are very easy-going and flexible compared to other bases. Let me know what week you are thinking of and I'll give you a couple times I would be available. I can meet you somewhere along I-65 or just meet you there...

Blurry pic but here it is. My first time bending hard lines since...maybe 1985? The off-the-shelf NAPA ones are 30" and it seems like the stock one was closer to 24" so there's a little extra that has to hang down and be looped around. But it's in there! Haven't bled yet but all seems to fit up...

Heath let me rephrase: if the GL auction text is not to be trusted fully (and it is not), then there's NO WAY you can go by that little code. Honestly I never even look at that condition code and I think most of the time the people running the auctions don't either, or just throw something in...

If you think anyone can tell you what repairs are needed based on a code, go back and read the first post on pg 1 of this thread again!

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/3229-deuce-power-bleeder-r4x4-style.html http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/34614-pressure-bleeder.html Just a couple, there are more...

The front wheels I replaced the cylinders, hoses and one hard line. Didn't open the rears at all. Should I still start at the rear?

Guys I've been reading brake-bleeding threads and also the TM. I have built a pressure bleeder out of a garden sprayer and all required fittings into the cap on the MC. Here are my questions: 1. Using a pressure bleeder, is it still necessary to bleed the MC? If so how and when? I have not...

Tagging this how-to. Is there a PDF of it already created somewhere?

I was doing the front-passenger side. The rubber hose there had a split in it, not leaking but why wait, since I had to bleed the brakes anyway.

Yeah I tried the line wrench first (flare nut wrench) and even though it was gripping 4 sides it rounded right off.

PB blaster and vice grips (which I did not previously own) did the trick! Thanks again guys.

I've got the adjustable on the t-fitting fine but that nut just does not wanna budge. Using a line wrench but I'm still rounding off the nut. Seems to be soft metal. Gonna give it a rest for a while and try again later.

So...before I screw something else up, is there any trick to unscrewing the hard line from the T-fitting? It's not wanting to budge.

Whew! Awesome, yes, I even found the NAPA part# in THIS THREAD! SS delivers again!