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only issue with doing aluminum is it's too soft for going on rocks. Edges of rocks will dig into the aluminum, preventing it from sliding. Would work okay as just a jacking rail, but not rock sliding. I though about scoring it with a cutting wheel, but since the first one came out almost...

So I've kind of beaten up the bottom edge of the truck. Just because you can make it through the jeep trails doesn't mean you won't take a few hits from it. Anyway, I decided I wanted some protection for the edge. Talked to a friend who's business orders steel for their own needs, and he...

if he can afford it, then yes. If not, well, the military isn't the only place that 24V systems are used.

Since you have to replace it at this point anyway, you might consider switching to a 24V alternator instead. Much higher reliability and more plentiful in the market. Not all that complicated to make/modify the brackets to mount it. Just have to get the correct pulley.

For "plain ole M998" you might need to replace your rear spring perches, as some are stamped/welded and some are cast iron. They use different length springs. I believe the earlier trucks used the stamped/welded ones, and the springs were similar size front and rear, where the cast perches...

Neither the jeep nor the Range Rover has anywhere near as much unsprung weight to deal with. 160lb wheel/tire assembly, plus the weight of the geared hubs. 250ish lbs per corner maybe? So 1000 lbs of unsprung weight. Mo matter how good/soft the springs and shocks, it will never ride as good...

for anti-seize my preference is the Jet-Lube Marine Anti Seize. It's non-metallic. Nicest thing I've found is it's a LOT easier to clean up than the metallic ones (especially an old can of nickel anti-seize I used to have) but stays in the threads and whatnot...

Zinc plated steel bolts are probably your best choice. The zinc acts as a sacrificial barrier between the two metals. Also add anti seize whenever possible. I also do a layer of 20 mil PVC tape on any bare metal surfaces between the two metals. If the surfaces are painted I don't really worry...

Glad that's what you got it for. Saves a lot of grief and gnashing of teeth trying to figure out how to make it do something that's impossible. There have been more than a few of these (or other 400hz units) that were bought by people that either didn't know it was 400hz or didn't realize it...

Looking good. Now just to get a real 2" receiver for the rear bumper and not that pinball one that is notorious for bending with any type of actual weight on it.

Hate to break it to you, but that is a 400 hz generator. Even if you can get the generator to put out power, there isn't really anything in the civilian world that uses 400 hz.

The PNW Overland Rally in Plain, WA finally got their website together and set up for registrations. June 16-19 sites are 20x20 feet in size, any bigger and you have to purchase a second 20x20 site. Looks like prices are reduced for early registration. Early registration discount ends on...

okay, thread is up for the rally in July this year. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/2022-pacific-northwest-rally-fe.209019/

I'll be bringing myself and possibly one or two of the nieces.

some shims are slotted, sometimes they aren't. The slotted ones should, in theory, be able to remove by just loosening all the bolts, but not actually removing them. As Action said though, look in the TM for the amount you need to remove (and the procedure should be in the TM for the entire job...

mine had no problem with doing the toe, but doing anything more it was going to be charged by the hour since this is obviously NOT a standard vehicle. Most likely you will need to do the shims yourself. They should at least be able to give you a printout with how far out of spec camber/caster...

Last week took mine into Les Schwab for an alignment. I started getting nervous when they broke out the oxy acetylene torch. Then the 6 foot cheater bar. They told me they couldn't get it loose, and didn't charge me for the work. Today I crawled under it. 5 minutes with a torch and penetrating...

I've worked on other types of hydraulic systems. Getting hot is pretty normal. That's what the cooler's job is anyway, to reduce the hear generated by the pump and moving fluid under pressure. Most hydraulic systems use a large reservoir to allow the oil time to cool before going back through...

not likely. That's the generic sticker for all pre 196900 serial number serpentine belt systems whether they have Red Dot aircon or just a pulley blank in that spot. Well, other than the fact that it lists a TM that isn't used for any of the HMMWVs as far as I can tell. The Red Dot aircon...

The M1123 you need the TM 9-2320-280-XX manuals to work on it, as it's an A2 truck. The -387 manuals are for the ECV/REV series of truck. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/tms-for-the-m998-series-hmmwv.78861/