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Thank you for that clarification.

" Do you have 24 volts going into the ignition switch on wire #11A? Do you have 24 volts coming out of the ignition switch when you go to "RUN" on wire #29A to circuit breaker CB2 and pin "B" of the engine connector? Do you have 24 volts coming out of the ignition switch when you go to...

Ok, I changed out my smart start box for a new one and still nothing. My remaining options as I understand them are: 1. Start switch itself 2. Engine Harness (positive power wire to the starter solenoid) Any other ideas?

You're a Genius, it kicked right over! Attached is the STE/ICE Port diagram for anyone who may need it, the diagram is reversed on my truck. Ok, so I guess this means that the start box is likely fried or wires on the front side of the connection to the starter are fried.

So... You're saying once turned ON it will start the truck? So, to be clear: 1. Take off cap 2. Insert wire into pins while run switch is in the OFF position 3. Then, while wire is in both pins, start the truck or dont start the truck?

Ok, so this step won't start the vehicle but will aid in troubleshooting. Got it.

Ok, I'll give that a shot as well. I'm unfamiliar as to where I can find the STE-ICE connector. I'll research it.

It tested good at the starter bench

So what gauge wire? Sounds a little dangerous to get down there and try to bridge 24v with however many amps to a tiny solenoid post at 45 degrees away from me adjacent to the frame. I assume this is from the large positive post to the starter solenoid correct? What position should the start...

I found that I have power on the main studs of the wires from the battery box that connect to the starter. I have the 4 speed tyranny with Park. I don't start in neutral. Is there another switch, relay, or fuse I should be checking?

I have power on the large connectors from the battery box which connect to the positive and negative studs on the starter. Shouldnt I have power on the small positive cable which connects to the solenoid? That wire drops down from the front while the negative for the solenoid is in the negative...

Yes, I have the support bracket with the hook. The batteries are good. I don't seem to have voltage under the truck needed to power the starter Solenoid.

I took the battery for a bench test and it functioned as expected in the bench. The batteries are all testing good on my multimeter.

So.... Long story short. Took the truck out for its first long highway run followed by some off road fun. Heard a clunk then a grinding sound. Pulled into a parking area and turned the truck off. While the truck was off a horrible screeching sound came from what I believed was the starter...

Tire Width is 15.5 (40x15.5r20) Wheels: 20x11.5 -44 offset

I just got a 2in susp lift plus 2in body lift for 40inch Nitro Mud grapplers

I believe the Pintle uses a 1 7/8 socket

I use the dewalt 3/8 with the 1/2 in extension in my socket set. You will need the larger sockets for the airlift bumper, particularly to remove the pintle.

Flying Nun is a perfect description.

Here's a question I always had for the 11XX series trucks being sold out of Yermo. Is the roof still the armored steel or does GP remove that roof and install another roof?