Search results

Correct, the part number in the TM is just the off-the-shelf Haldex part number. The same is true of many other part numbers in the TM.

It's worth pointing out that those are fairly lofty power consumption goals for solar. At high noon, the maximum amount of solar energy that hits a square yard of the Earth is about 1000W. The world record for laboratory solar panel efficiency is around 25%, and common off the shelf panels are...

I don't recall. It was about a year ago that I was tracing all this out. If yours has a numbered metal crimp tag on it, you can look that number up in the TM's wiring diagrams.

That part number is just the number from the parts TM.

If the gears are all set up correctly in the 3rd member, what does the swap entail? Do you just pull the axle shafts, and swap the 3rd members? I guess on the front you can't just pull the shafts, and so that might require taking the whole knuckle off/apart, correct?

He'll spend a few hours following the troubleshooting charts in the TM, fail to diagnose the problem, and tell you to sell the truck at auction? :D

Yeah, the pool noodle might help.

It has the D-rings sewn into the bottom, and the rubber bungee, as well as the straps and buckles across the seam on the inside. So you can get it held down mostly ok, but it will still bellow out a few inches when going 50MPH.

It doesn't appear to be a mistake. The flaps are shaped differently than the typical "front side flaps on top" version, it doesn't have the black circles reinforcing the corners (they are tan), etc. When I bought it, I was told something like "This is the later Afghanistan version, where the...

I had your symptoms once when one of the alternator cables had worn through and shorted against a bracket. Every time it would hit and make contact, I'd get the "drop outs" you are talking about, and the transmission dash panel would reset. I think almost any of the larger wires shorting like...

We should start a whole gas mileage thread. I'd love to see a lot more discussion on the topic.

That is not very typical. 5-7 MPG is a more realistic expectation. (Army thinks so too... truck has a 58 gallon tank designed to let it go 300 miles, so simple math.)

I'll take a picture of mine when I have it on the truck again (I took it off a few weeks ago while offroading, so it wouldn't get raked by trees, and haven't put it back on yet.) The rear side flaps are clearly manufactured on top of the front flaps, so they scoop air while driving.

A loose wire could turn something off , but not on.

Oh, I see. Umm, yes, you probably could, with a few issues. The pull string to raise the "rear" flap would then be in the front, and then the front flap and rear side flaps would be facing into the wind. So it would end up with twice as many flaps facing into the wind.

Not really, because the straps are only on the one side.

It's hard to tell until you get the cab up. If I remember correctly, the switch for this is on the passenger side, at the top of the water pump or thermostat housing, right above the alternator. When working correctly, as the coolant temperature hits 230 degrees, this Normally Open (NO) switch...

Yeah, I agree.

To be clear about my comments before, I'm not at all saying it has to be military. I actually said practically anything will work, and start the truck. You could use 4 motorcycle batteries... 12V is 12V, and nearly any combination of decent batteries will give you enough current to start the...

There are 3 senders (well, 2 are technically switches). The one in the metal hose going forward to the radiator is the fan clutch switch. The one in the thermostat housing is for the temp gauge in the cab. The one facing rearward from the thermostat housing, kind of above the alternator, is...