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I suppose these are the piston/sleeve kits in question, and that they all came in their original box, all nicely wrapped and still sealed in plastic? Of course I could go and open all of mine and measure, but I know beforehand what the results will be... Still, for peace of mind I might check...

It may be worn - or simply out of adjustment? Unscrew/ pull out the whole assembly and check the tip of the bolt. It should look like this one here... G.

See this post, pic #10. Have you PMed Clay James? I see he has read this thread but that was one week ago. G.

... or just mount the whole thing- that other cover- and test-drive it for a while.

LOL... gear oil is the very best (and cheapest) rust preservative...!:) But seriously; very seldom did I have to actually replace that gasket. Normally it just takes a bit of brake cleaner to remove oil; let dry, then lightly coat with RTV just before install. I agree, it's a bit more work...

I would pull the top and take a closer look at the synchronizer dogs. Check the wear marks, maybe parts are only partially engaging for some reason? The drawing below shows what you have right now. Note that full travel of the synchronizer hub should be little over 1/2". Try to post some...

Let me go through my scrap-pile tomorrow... If nada, I know where there are some abandoned M49's, not too far from my AO. One at least has to have those parts.

:funny:

My bad; "ENTER" doesn't do it. After editing your location, go all the way down on that page and click on "Save Changes". G.

Click on "Settings", upper right corner of screen; Click on "Edit Profile", center left side of screen; Go to the "Location" window and put GA (or your hometown followed by GA if you like) Hit "ENTER" G.

Welcome to SteelSoldiers! And a nice CUCV you got. Please note that we require all members to put at least their State where it says "Location". Obviously it's Georgia, so put GA in there, at least (I had to edit your title, too) G.

Hah,yes,no,umh, well... thanks Robert! Actually some things I find are good enough to leave them as are...:-) Not that second diagram, though! Let me quickly show the "before" and "after, side by side; then you will see why.

Beautiful scenery!

This one? Left side is pass.side, right? See some diagrams below, out of my favorite book, ORD 9 SNL G-742. (I have edited the second image, for better understanding...) G.

We have not mentioned yet the option of having this retainer made out of cast iron, same as original but with the correct shape to accommodate that seal. Anyone here having connections to a good foundry? Or even owning one?? I still think that a batch of say 100 pieces could be sold easily if...

Nice drawing and study! Hopefully it would end with a reliable (and much more affordable solution) but I’m afraid that you are being a bit too optimistic here…? Your modified bearing retainer(-model) may be acceptable as it looks but the reality is a little different. Even for a seal a bit...

:ditto:

They are not identical but yes, they will work fine. The only difference in size is the knurled section which is 3mm longer on the 24-bolt wheels. G.

:ditto:

I know it sounds strange but it really doesn't need more than that. In normal service that slip-joint does see some extension, but barely any compression. From level position (empty truck) to all the way up against the bump stops, the fwd rear-axle only shifts forward (= closer to the T-case)...