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You said the marks are perfectly aligned. What if you advance the pump a tad? Try and see what it does having the marks offset about 1mm; that is, the pump's mark moved to the drivers side. G.

Stock length, compressed = 45-1/2" (center to center of U-joint bearing caps). G.

True, but it all depends on how much material needs to be removed- and where... I'm always open to new (and less expensive) ideas, to solve this old problem. Ideally, we would end with a still reliable solution, for say $100 - or less. G.

Agreed, but... they are saying it is holding up fine, and for years now? I have heard only good comments from Mr. Talbert (M-Series Rebuild) and I simply can't imagine that he would put at risk his good reputation by installing something that wasn't well tested before? Garrett, there might be a...

Very interesting, since there isn't really much room left! Must be a slim, tiny seal then...? G.

That's what crossed my mind first, when I read post #1, this morning. But then - they can't be that stupid...? G.

It's 6 vs 8 mounting bolt-holes: MF CAT He will need a 17" flywheel like this one: G.

Oops... I was really hoping NOT to confuse anyone... just insert that small seal into the spindle as Recovry4x4 said, with the lips going in first. G.

Absolute Right, Sir! And let me add this little trick I learned a long time ago (during my Jeepin' era): if that small seal is installed "backwards" (= lips facing the washer) it may allow some oil/grease to "leak" ( which actually helps keeping the V-seal lubed). Also - if that V-seal failed...

... some more pics. I have seen both type washers there, bronze and plastic. Can't really say one is better than the other. G.

Part number is correct (NSN 4710-860-5417) Post a WTB-ad in the classifieds. Or if you want new parts, contact the usual military parts stores like Erik's; Eastern; TNJ-Murray; Memphis; etc. Or call 423-255-6509, Derek in NW-GA. He should have half a dozen good takeouts... G.

:funny:

FWIW, it's 157 ft-lbs for the TD.

:ditto: I have seen more than ever on US-highways, this last trip. Wait until you ran them tubeless, on TL-wheels... it may change your mind about that. Back in 2002 I upgraded my first Deuce from stock to the Conti 14.5 TL-singles. From then on, no more tire work! I only regret not having it...

1) Two independent systems, one main - one auxiliary, just for the cold start period - and to be able to "flush" the IP before any longer stop. Germans call that a "Zwei-Tank-System" - even if the two tanks were siamesed. 2) Two floats/sending units - one fuel gauge. And yes, it's all controlled...

Well, I mentioned that combined 6-way switch as an option and really only used it once (for a MB-diesel/SVO powered Jeep). I do prefer threaded fittings, also. This is what I used for the fuel return: two solenoid valves - everything having NPT threads and sealed with Loctite 518. Note the...

It was posted already - almost 10 years ago :wink:. Here... G.

Really?:wink:

Short answer: no. G.

Tapered side of key goes inside the keyway. Second from left is your drum thrust ring; 3rd from left is the end frame thrust bearing. (Large surface riding against the end frame itself). G.