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As it says above we need this trailer moved. It can be towed or loaded as desired as it is in perfect condition. I would love to piggy back onto an existing move to save cost. Thanks!

So we have seen the connector (under the hood to the control box) have poor continuity and cause these issues you describe. Last truck we had in the owner had used dielectric grease inside the connector (worried about water getting in when he was fording) and that caused nearly identical issues...

Well said Sir!

You care correct that your heater would see hotter temps taking coolant from the back of the heads. However it would take longer to reach that temperature and the benefit of the balancing the temps would not work correctly. In order to get the balance you need a very controlled level of flow...

https://paradoxbydesign.com/collections/cooling-upgrades/products/hmmwv-humvee-cooling-upgrade-system-v3 ;)

Be careful with those IR temp guns. They are wildly inaccurate especially on reflective metal surfaces. Hoses read right but you are reading external temperature vs internal temperature.

How is your coolant level?

Norm if your system is that bad please pull off our hoses and blow them backwards (front to back) with compressed air to make sure all that gunk did not clog things up. Sounds like your truck ran with river water or worse for a period in it's past. Anti-corrosion is a good plan for a while.

A ton of rust and corrosion hides at the back of the block under the rear block off plates (hence our cooling upgrade kits) by removing those you can push water with a hose through those and get a ton of gunk out. Just make sure you buy gaskets for those before you do this (or one of our kits...

Unfortunately these engines have a poor coolant flow to the rear of the block which causes the rear to run as much as 50 degrees hotter than the front. The cooling system overall temperature will not necessarily show this as it it looking at overall system temperature which is being regulated...

Could be blown head gaskets or cracked cylinders as ken said. A chemical head gasket tester kit can be had for little money and with a sniff of the coolant will tell if you have combustion gasses in the coolant.

When we go deep in the sticks we have all the above plus a set of three axles with tools to replace, all the belts, air compressor, good radio, emergency camping equipment, standard pioneer tool kit, hose sealer, water, diesel etc...

Without going inside the motor: Turn up the fuel a bit, if she starts blowing smoke you have gone too far, a light bit is OK (EGT monitoring i recommended) Open up the air cleaner with a tall filter and even a filter top too. More air = better A good set of headers, twin exhaust with an 'H' or...

Since you have the pump apart, I put my head on a belt sander to clean it up. I know it's not a true surfacing job but I figured it would at least clean up any corrosion and make it seal up a bit better. I also cleaned up the valves and such. Works much better now. Still not great but after...

Yep you are thinking gas engines where lean burn raises the heat of combustion and EGTs and rich mixtures cool the burn and drop EGTs. In diesels the more fuel, the more heat (more EGTs).

We find most 'as set' 6.2 and 6.5 engines are pretty detuned. Adding a little fuel (not 'rollin' coal' by any means) and slightly advancing timing from military settings goes a LONG way! I am guessing the rebuild pump got tuned to civilian or slightly more fuel and timing.

LEDs usually don't care if it is 12V or 24V so I use them whenever possible. They also dont fail like incandescent and use much less power too.

Way way way back when we bought our FLU we got a really good deal on it. It had 17 miles on the odometer (real, not a reset) and still had knobs on the tires. Despite this it was being sold as a non-runner and it was. Well it turned out that when the Service Builtin came out requiring fuel...

I have upwards of 15 different brake reservoir caps all with standard 3/8 air line fittings attached to them for all sorts of cars and trucks. I use basically a pressurized weed killer setup with it's own hand pump and gauge. The reservoir in it can take any brake fluid you want so I just...

You can put in 5 different temp senders and get 5 different final readings. Though not the most accurate an infrared temp gauge can give you some backup to what the gauge is showing you. Also these engines are notorious for air/steam pockets at the back of the block which can reek havoc on the...