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I was told by a mod that we can in fact type "eBay" in here. No need for the e-smay stuff. And I was told by a mod we can even post auction links as long as we did not discuss actual *bids*.

On mine (and the drawing): 14g brown is the sensor loop 14g wht is the heat element loop Red and blk 18g make up battery01 Wht and grn 18g make up battery02 I don't see any reason that you couldn't use 18g on all. Colors could vary I guess (SHC made millions of these battery packs)...

I'm loading a transport here in a few hours, but I'm going to make up a set of leads for my second heater this week. Will advise if all works.

I used the connector that Profo posted in the below link. Perfect fit for my SHC60. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/making-your-own-shc-35-battery-pack-this-helps.206656/ The 1st and 3rd images are correct (and match the 4th drawing). And thanks for that 1st pic. I totally forgot...

I'm no electronics wiz by any means. I've let a LOT of smoke out of things. How is this really different than OEM (you just delete one battery on the 24v side in your img). The 12v gremlins (always lurking) would stull suck on that second 12v house battery the way you have it drawn?

Needs LS swap. So saithe the Internet.... ;P

You'd be correct. The 100amp alt is no match for four 6TLs,Hawkers, etc. Interestingly, the Niehoff dual voltage do not put out the same amps to both 12v and 24v rails. 100amp = 24v 100amp/12v 60 amp 260 amp = 24v 260amp/ 12v 140amp So when the 12v gremlins suck on a 100amp truck...

OH......btw It won't start if the sensor is over 80 degrees if I recall. I had to wait six months to start trouble shooting mine. LOL It's been in the 80's here all week with another round of 80's forecast until the weekend so I'm not missing the heater (but I couldn't...

18 beeps is the temp sensor

As long as there is a little fuel in the bowl, it will prime and cycle thru the startup. It has no pressure detection (being gravity fed, no pressure to measure). The number of beeps tells the code of course. Do you have the TM for it?

Yep. S&S licensed the cab from Steyr.

Interesting. I've often wondered if you could do this (with two or more batteries making up the 12v side and one dedicated to become the 24v side). My idea was to prolong the capability to get sucked on by the 12v vampire that lives deep inside the truck. But I've also considered...

Just follow the beeps and chase the issues as per the TM. *back of the control box should also have the codes Low power or undervolt is almost ALWAYS a battery under 12v or a fuse is blown

Wire it according to the info up-thread and in others (either with the heater/sensor combo or the resister which will delete the heater/sensor). Battery 01: 14 gauge red+/blk- Battery 02: 14 gauge wht+/grn- 18 gauge brown is the thermo sensor loop (sensor or resister inline) 18 gauge...

You need a 9-pin male Molex plug: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/making-your-own-shc-35-battery-pack-this-helps.206656/

Well last time I picked up a pair was pre-China virus, so... But they look to be still around that price. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BAT7256

I honestly don't recall what I paid last time. I'd say ~$500 for the pair (after taxes with no cores to exchange) if memory serves.

Bookmarked the first one for future sharing. Nothing beats a video showing how to actually use the TM. (much better than simply saying "Read the TM")

Merry Christmas #FJB

Lithium are best suited for house batteries (ie: RV where they are tucked away indoors). The benefits there are valid if you can afford to go with them. But I'd never considered lithium for "truck" batteries.