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"It" being a 3116? "Seems like [a 3116] would [only] be in a medium duty truck"? The 1 mile = 1 minute = 60 MPH average just seems like an impossible number for most vehicles. I bet my daily driver doesn't even average that, and 2/3 of my drive to work every day is on the highway at 85 MPH.

I think it's self bleeding. Did you check the manual, in sections related to something like changing the cab hydraulic cylinder or the pump, to see what it says? You'll find that the manuals are amazingly detailed so that even the greenest of mechanics can perform the work (e.g. it will tell...

I haven't used that one specifically, but I've used magnetic oil pan heater on other vehicles. They work ok, but not as good as a block heater. The problem is that they only heat the oil sitting in the pan (not touching anything), so the engine is still cold (including the coolant), and the...

A mile per minute would be 60MPH, so I don't think that's reasonable. Essentially you're saying the average speed of the truck over its life is 60 MPH. Considering the truck can't even go 60MPH, I would use a number like 1 mile = 4 minutes (e.g. 15 MPH average) if you use it a lot (e.g. daily...

LIES! These things are great.

What is the linear distance between these two connectors, when they are stretched out?

Did you ever figure out if it was 12V or 24V?

That's dishing out some wisdom right there.

The damage is that you'll just break something else. I did what you're doing, and put a grade-8 3/8" bolt in there... then promptly broke the L-bracket. I made a beefy L-bracket to replace it, 3/8" thick, and then broke the rear ear off the alternator. So it's a dangerous road you're going...

My 3116 doesn't have inlet air heat (I don't think), so I'm not familiar with it. However, it seems like bizarre "repairs" like this aren't uncommon. Some brilliant Army mechanic had replaced my fan clutch switch (supposed to be NC) with a NO switch, so the fan was always on until it got hot...

You care then, by your own explanation, because the failure rate over time lets you understand if you can replace your door handles with OEM models and "get in your cab at 20 below" for the foreseeable future, or if it's worth looking at a modified/improved door handle lever or system in order...

No, like Suprman said, it has a little knurled knob on the top of it that is the fill port / dipstick.

No, nothing welded to the L-bracket.

Yes, this is the connector for the OEM tach (round black 4-pin connector).

Mine is the same. Bolt head, top alternator ear, L-bracket, locknut.

I don't have any failures - my '96 M1078(A0) has A1 doors with the forward pull handles. I was just saying that if you made a tool to cut the door panel (like I suggested in the other thread), you could potentially make it press that reinforcement lip into the panel at the same time as cutting it.

A separate brace part could probably be made, or if they did decide to make a punch tool it could probably form this lip too (if there is enough material there to do it).

Yeah, I don't really care. I'm not actually trying to get "interest", as in I'm not selling these things for profit or anything. I merely saw they had more seats and was offering someone who wanted dual seats the opportunity not to have to do a bunch of work to measure, design, and source this...

You could potentially develop a self-aligning punch that would do the job easily. I'm thinking something like these knock-out punches made by Swag Offroad, that fit on a Harbor Freight hydraulic tool: http://www.swagoffroad.com/SWAG-Knock-Out-Punch-Set-7-Piece-Set-Tube-Sizes_p_124.html Then...

Still some of those seats left on eBay. I had these seats for a couple months before I realized one of the seat belt retractors was damaged in shipping. No replacement retractors are easily available, and I tried one that is floating around on eBay but it is the passenger side and so locks...