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Swollen rubber brake hose to the rear axle that makes an inside "valve" that closes off, or your brake cylinders work but the brakes are out of adjustment are two things that come to mind.
Went to Kublo's Surplus in Brackney, PA and gawked at Oshkoshes and hordes of other trucks grazing in the field. They were whispering "Pick me! Pick me!". What a nice bunch of people there. I made off with a driver's door and some assorted small stuff. Didn't have a pocket large enough to stuff...
THIS seal https://www.rockwelloffroad.com/2.5-ton-parts/2.5-TON-SEALS?product_id=106
replaces
THIS seal: https://www.rockwelloffroad.com/2.5-ton-parts/2.5-TON-SEALS?product_id=62 which comes as part of the axle seal kit for the front.
Your extra money buys an improved seal (sock seal) already...
Any of the "C" or "D" or even the Schwitzer "big whistlers" off the LDS will work on your truck. Read up on the differences before you decide you want a "C".
Scored a few goodies....one of them is set of 11.00R20 Michelins on Canadian combat rims. Ok treads, some are new/not run, a couple need new O-rings for the rim halves. I admire guys that mount 395's on Hutchinson rims with adapter plates all by themselves. I find even the 11.00R20 make me grunt...
Yes...blue-eyed, bushy-tailed me believed the label on the box that advertised ".20 oversized bearings"...I did not re-measure. I get your point and see the risk.
Read this: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?123335-DEUCE-BRAKE-LINE-REFERENCE-GUIDE-(Sizes-lengths-fittings)
I had never done the "double flare" or "Inverted flare" but got myself a reasonably cheap brake line flare tool, some CUNIFER brake line and started making flares. Once...
Wow, cover looks good.
Your alternator issue could be the voltage regulator. First step is always to try and adjust the output voltage. If that fails, people have swapped the regulator out (basically the end cap) for a new one (about $90), had their alternator rebuilt by a knowledgeable shop or...
I think that the goal here is to remind people that broken stuff on the Deuce is $$ to fix, but on the LMTV/FMTV you are quickly into the $$$/$$$$ area when it affects engine/tranny. M35A3 owners can probably somewhat relate.
Gas powered impact: https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/491385009321316115/
Holy sh** that looks like a serious piece of machinery. STIHL makes them with what looks like one of their larger chain saw engines on top.
I second the re-coring. NOS radiators are still available...at $900 apiece. Re-coring is probably half that. These are solid, massive old-school radiators that can actually be cleaned (rodded) out, repaired and re-cored if needed.
I played around for a while trying to figure out which other...
If it is dripping oil from the boot it is **likely** to be the axle shaft seal, rather than the inner or outer hub seal.
Never mind the orientation of the zipper (the boot would just fill with oil). My suggestion is
- get the TM chapters/read threads here so you are familiar with how to do...
If you are in there anyway I would not even bother plasti-gaging the bearings. I did mine and what did I learn? That I ought to put new ones in. So - put new ones in and be done. Rod and crankshaft bearings. If yours still has the hex head rod bolts replace with 12-point (upgraded; stronger).
I rebuilt an LDS standing on its bell housing in the back of a utility trailer (prevented me from having to crawl around on the ground). I used cargo straps to secure it and lower it down for dealing with the deck and heads.
That is an innovative use of the axle clamps. Looks good. Some might argue that the front axle weight on w/w trucks is maxed out, even without the heavy tow bar at the foremost point of the truck.
I experimented with a front mount too for a while but have brackets on the front of the bed now...
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