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I am glad you identified the source and I hope it did not damage the battery.

Dang and I thought they were a reasonably priced alternative to the out-of-reach priced metal ones.

I can second what cmp truck said about the Canadian trucks being destroyed as they are removed from service. The few that were released, as indicted earlier in this thread, years ago, were all branded "irrepairable". This means the VIN was entered into a database that would ensure that this...

Congratulations to the uttlerly sane approach. Of course...with the pan off you could do upgraded 12 head rod bolts...new main bearings...new rod bearings....seeing how you have it open anyway! That would be MY road to overkill! Ask me how I know!

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?81184-Dead-Battery-Situation-M35a2 https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?142159-m35a2-batteries https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?81543-M35A2-Charging-system-questions...

http://www.waterloospecialties.com/overdrive/index.html

That's where you engage your three ARB air lockers and drive right out :razz: I know....I'm dreaming, too....

It would be great if someone with Tom's skill set could take over and continue the product line, rather than seeing it all retired and disappearing. Maybe there is a business opportunity for someone.

I installed Tom's kit and could not be happier. Yes, it costs money but you get what you pay for.

I wonder if it is drawing air into the lines. The fuel system is essentially self-bleeding when the engine is running. It would need to be a big leak to upset idle the way it does in your clip. I would probably run it, drive the cr*p out of it for an hour and see if it learned any better manners...

Once it is that far gone...replace. IMHO not worth futzing around with. A good used steel one will do, and you can clean and interior coat if before you put it on. If you are fancy, source an aluminium tank from an M35A3! And, yes, whatever you touch leads to something else....up to a point...

Replaced the weatherstripping around both windshield frames, cleaned and repainted the frames and upgraded the wiper arms and blades. Now I can drive in the rain and get damp instead of drenched and I will be able to see to the end of the hood! Progress. Wiper arms are Anco, blades are Anco 11...

The truck wants to idle at 700-900 rpm. That means pulling the hand throttle, especially when the engine is cold. Totally normal. Once warm, you can usually click it in a couple of notches. If you pull the hand throttle and the engine is somewhat warmed up, at 900 rpm and constantly...

You scored a late rebuild AND dump to boot. It is impossible to go wrong with that!! Nice job!

The two little screws, secured with safety wire, should not be tight. Just enough to hold everything but not impair movement.

If you own a really big screw driver and are not faint of heart, here is how to bypass the starter switch and see if the starter turns the thing over: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ilrVbn1CHi0

Thanks to all for your replies. This is "Green Madness Therapy". I feel better now. Anger management has kicked in.

Here are some pictures The middle pic shows the platform between bumper and fender support.

Oh, I was my sweetest self..very understanding...and then walked away. I steamed in the car on the way home! :-) I landed on doing what you said...make sure the guy has my number, in case he changes his mind and just let it play out, whichever way it plays out. It is just a shame to have...

Good avice. Pulling parts ahead of time is not an option there. You can go look (no tools, they make sure), then tell them what you want.